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Who's next at Balenciaga?

By Don-Alvin Adegeest

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Fashion |OPINION

London - When Balenciaga and Alexander Wang announced their joint decision not to renew their contract beyond its initial term, the first thought on everyone's lips was who will be his successor?

Wang spent just two and a half years at the house, in stark comparison to Nicolas Ghesquière, who was there for fifteen, and who gave the house a new identity, both aesthetically and commercially.

Wang's own label took precedence

While the usual joint statement was full of compliments and well wishes for both the designer and the house, Wang's tenure at Balenciaga has been both fleeting and lukewarm. Of course it didn't help he had one creative foot permanently submerged in his own label, an empire he has been steadily building for a decade. Wang did not have the precision, wit or indeed the romance of founder Cristobal Balenciaga, but while his collections weren’t blockbusters, they were not disastrous either.

Wang enjoys a certain street cred that brought a younger customer to the house, but it feels timely for both parties to call it a day. As the New York Times aptly wrote: "Mr. Wang was effectively a design version of the bridge boyfriend. Now Balenciaga, and its parent company, Kering, are free to find someone else without the same expectations attached.”

Now that his departure is official, industry figures are starting to make predictions as to his replacement. Proenza Schouler, J.W. Anderson and Joseph Altuzzara are all names being thrown around, as have Christopher Kane, Thomas Tait, Julien Dossena (Paco Robanne) or perhaps an unknown designer, following the lead at Gucci.

Christopher Kane could be an interesting candidate. Kane's own collection is owned by Kering, the same parent company of Balenciaga. Kane also shares a modern and strongly feminine aesthetic with the house, particularly when it was under Ghesquière’s creative direction.

It will be interesting to see who the house will appoint as it's new creative head. No doubt the announcement will come after Wang's final outing for Balenciaga's SS16 collection.

Image: Alexander Wang

Interested in reading more about the investment partner Wang may have found to help him grow his popular luxury label? Then read further at: Alexander Wang nearing investor deal

ALEXANDER WANG
Balenciaga
Christopher Kane