It was the energy of the Moschino show on the final day of Pitti Uomo that best summed up the revelry of the biannual Florentine tradeshow.
Moschino’s creative director Jeremy Scott is notably famed for his ‘more is more’ approach and this season cited Fellini’s Casanova as the primary reference for his Versailles meets biker chic collection. In terms of fashion, this stylistically translated into decadent jacquards, rich embroideries, ruffles, quilted materials and florals that were scrawled with a hint of a cartoon character.
Elsewhere the streetstyle at Pitti Uomo is always a note worth referencing, as this is where trends emerge. Cropped tailored trousers were seen to be a wider and shorter silhouette at Pitti. Paired with single or double-breasted blazers, a relaxed, jogger-like trouser was seen more formal when worn with coordinated fabrics for a more directional look. Also spotted were nautical resort references in blue, striped and polka-dot fabrics, which already debuted on the London catwalks earlier.
The Kilgour installation at the Medici Palazzo was impressive
One of the highlights of Pitti was British Savile Row brand Kilgour’s installation at the Medici Palazzo, curated by its creative director Carlo Brandellito. A series of contemporary glass and mirror sculptures were displayed within the palace's historic internal courtyard - the original ancestral home of perhaps one of the world's most important cultural patrons, Cosimo de' Medici. The installation, created specifically for the launch of Kilgour's new collection, incorporates some of the ideas that Brandelli displayed in his series of ultra-modern fashion films with Nick Knight last year.
Pucci effectively inaugurated the SS16 show at Pitti, which was the perfect setting for the house’s new creative director Massimo Giorgetti to host a casual presentation of his first collection and allowing guests to catch a glimpse of his new era of Pucci. "I think of this as the pilot episode of a TV series. I come out with this episode and I'm curious to see what happens," Giorgetti told i-D. Florence, of course is the founding home of Pucci, and the collection showed an interpretation of its vivid print and boho chic archives mixed with Giorgetti’s knowledge of cut, colour and accessories.
images: Moschino SS16, Kilgour installation, Pucci SS16