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Who’s Next: What AW24/25 trends will be presented at the show?

By Aéris Fontaine


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David Koma, Burberry, Ami Paris. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Denim, chunky knits and uniforms are set to be strong pieces in the autumn/winter wardrobe for the coming year. In a webinar broadcast on LinkedIn on 12 December, Sylvie Pourrat, salon director at WSN, and Michaël Bonzom, creative director of ready-to-wear at consultancy agency NellyRodi, announced the AW24/25 trends and the brands that will embody them at the next edition of Who's Next, to be held from 20 to 22 January 2024 at Porte de Versailles in Paris.


(From left) Ami Paris FW23, Thom Browne pre-fall 2024, Kenzo SS24. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Named "Utopia", the first trend revolves around the uniform and its hybridisation. With National Education Minister Gabriel Attal recently announcing plans to trial the wearing of uniforms in French schools, this piece is set to gradually take pride of place in consumers' wardrobes.

The uniform is intended to be both utilitarian and elegant, well cut and made from noble materials in specialist tailoring workshops. The star colour of this trend is worker blue, combined with more pastel shades such as soft pink. Bonzom suggested turning to materials such as denim to complete the look, but also wool, cashmere and leather, "which we prefer to be vegan". Classic tailoring, multi-pocket shorts and micro-cargos are paired with more feminine pieces such as satin blouses, lace tops and close-fitting jackets.

Shoe brand Le Bohemien embodies this trend with its moccasins that are in keeping with a "back to school" spirit, a theme honoured at the previous edition of Who's Next. The label will be present at the show, in the footwear area in Hall 4. Kings of Indigo, a denim specialist, will be exhibiting in Hall 5.2. For the first time, the brand will be showcasing a unisex jean that is "equally suited to women and men". New to the show is South Korean ready-to-wear brand M.ROF, which offers ensembles that combine streetwear style and will be set up in Hall 6.


Kolor SS24, Daniela Gregis FW23, Burberry FW23. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The "Wonderland" trend is influenced by the outdoor spirit, which is then characterised by a desire to reconnect with nature. It is embodied in practical and versatile pieces, designed to last over time and be passed down from one generation to the next. At the same time, Bonzom noted a growing interest in childhood worlds and the tales and legends of the North, which is reflected in retail experiences that rely more and more on immersion and the wonder of the senses.

Oak green, lichen grey and even wood brown embody this trend. They blend perfectly with more acidic colours such as yellow and red. Colourful knits and thick raincoats are the key elements of the Wonderland trend. Accessories also play an important role, like mittens, functional bags and trainers covered in velcro and rope that protect against the cold and make it easier to get around "in the city as well as in the mountains."

In contrast to the monochrome silhouettes of the Utopia trend, Wonderland is banking on colours and prints. Here, we find pieces with Scandinavian or Native American motifs, or stylised with English embroidery in a retro style inspired by the 18th century.

At Who's Next, Wonderland style will be embodied by Aaluna's colourful bags, which draw on the skills of indigenous Colombian populations, and Inuikii's cosy ankle boots, which promise to keep feet warm all winter long. Both brands will be present in Hall 4.


Burberry FW23, Luis de Javier FW23, Moschino pre-fall 2023. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Spell or "new rebellion" illustrates a desire to dramatise everyday life in difficult times. Consumers want to experiment and are multiplying bold, assertive proposals. The trend is based on fantasies about witches, dark tales, nursery rhymes, and Disney super-villains. Powerful colours such as blood red, deep green and raven black are used. Brighter shades such as pistachio green or cherry red soften these very strong silhouettes.

The strong garments of the "Spell" trend are the biker jacket, the bomber and dark-coloured jeans in a style reminiscent of 1960s punk/rock influences. They can be mixed with more feminine pieces such as lingerie tops.

In terms of materials, black denim, leather, metal, as well as smocked velvet and recycled polyester are all in the spotlight. Jewellery takes centre stage, sometimes dominating the clothes. They are stacked, juxtaposed and used in unusual ways. The pieces are intended to be voluminous, in extravagant shapes that transform the appearance of the body.

At Who's Next, hair accessory brand Matilda Headpieces will embody the trend with its headbands studded or entirely decorated with rhinestones, shells and pearls. Meanwhile, label Death is Easy will be showcasing its range of graphic print T-shirts, cargo shirts and revealing tops.


Gucci SS24, Dsquared pre-fall 2024, David Koma SS24. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The "Eternity" trend is a continuation of ‘skimwear’, which is very much in vogue this season. It is synonymous with softness and escape, positioning itself halfway between reality and fiction. This is reflected in innovative proposals and the use of artificial intelligence in product design.

"Eternity" is represented by luminous colours such as celestial pink, silver grey or more nude shades for a "second skin" effect. These light colours can be enhanced with fuchsia or lemon yellow.

The trend's key pieces are moon boots, mackintoshes and down jackets. Bonzom also highlighted a craze for imposing jewellery like necklaces and earrings that interweave rhinestones, pearls and other glittering details.

The trend will be adopted at the end of next year and will mark the transition between the winter and spring seasons. As such, it will incorporate lighter, more festive silhouettes such as sequin dresses and sequin tops paired with down jackets and "beautiful warm knits."

Soft, voluptuous and enveloping, the Douce Gloire scarf brand fits perfectly with the "Eternity" style, explained Sylvie Pourrat. It will be on display in Hall 4 of the show. Gertrude's colourful down jackets and thick jackets, meanwhile, will be on show in Hall 6.

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