FW25 Menswear buyer’s guide: baggy denim, duffel coats, collared sweaters and more
By Jayne Mountford
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Menswear has become an increasingly significant sector within the fashion and retail industries.
With a return to the office, tailoring will continue to be a major player this forthcoming season. Look for suits with a slightly more relaxed silhouette, slim-fit shirtings, sometimes with contrasting collars and cuffs, and long wool coats.
However, it is predicted that it is with their casual and/or weekend looks that designers will deliver the newness customers expect to see in any assortment. Overall, designs are based on traditional or retro styles refreshed with modern materials and accents. Look for twists on the #gorpcore and #eclectic grandpa micro trends.
The majority of the menswear shows for fw25 will be taking place in mid-January 2025. Before buyers, editors and influencers flock to Paris and Milan, let’s take a look at key items we expect to see on the runways.
Duffel Coat
A duffel coat is usually defined as being a long wool serge coat with a hood and wooden toggles, often with a plaid or contrast lining. Despite it being associated with British institutions such as the army and the collegiate world, the name is derived from the town of Duffel in Belgium. For fw25, silhouettes remain traditional with just certain variations in closures. As seen at Kolor fw24 and Sacai fw24Trench Coat
Mirroring key item trends in womenswear, the trench coat has become ubiquitous in many designer collections of late, and moves forward into fw25. Most styles are DB, below-the-knee and self-belted, with utilitarian details like storm flaps and epaulettes. In addition to the usual cotton canvas, expect to see this traditional style rendered in other materials such as wool. As seen at JW Anderson fw24 and Bottega Veneta fw24Barn Jacket
A barn jacket, defined by its roomy shape, corduroy collar and sleeve cuffs is elevated with fresh colors and materials As seen at Prada fw24 and Fendi fw24.Collared Sweaters
Thick wool and wool blend sweaters are key items for fw25. Call it the preppy effect, but sweaters with collars are particularly on trend, often in a fair isle or novelty pattern. As seen at Loewe fw24 and Lacoste fw24Textured Vest
The textured vest is a versatile piece that can be layered over a variety of shirts and sweaters and worn with jeans, slacks or athletic bottoms. As seen at Burberry fw24 and White Mountaineering fw24Baggy jeans
Baggy jeans with a slouchy fit replace skinny and straight leg styles for fw25. Blue denim is the main choice with plenty of treatments such as heavy whiskering and faded washes. As seen at White Mountaineering fw24 and Isabel Marant fw24Dressed-Up Cargo Pants
Cargo pants move forward into fw25, albeit looking less utilitarian. They will be rendered in soft materials such as corduroy, velvet and wool. Look for designers to show them in matching sets. As seen at Giorgio Armani fw24 and Dries Van Noten fw24Technical Pants
An option to replace athletic pants to team with other outdoorsy items is a pair of technical pants. Fabrics include quilted synthetics and shell nylons. As seen at Todd Snyder fw24 and Kway fw24FW25
Menswear