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London Fashion Week embraces most diverse week yet

By Don-Alvin Adegeest

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Fashion

There is a feeling of disdainfulness writing about fashion and the opening of London Fashion Week on the same morning of an attempted terrorist attack on the London Underground, at Parson's Green station.

We are exposed to negative news and horror stories on a daily basis, but while they have numbingly become an accepted fact of modern life we are not impenetrable when bad things happen closer to home.

But for the swathes of designers, their teams and industry professionals who have been working round the clock to prepare to show their spring summer 2018 collections this week, we must recognize that we are a platform for their voices, and no act of terrorism can silence the voice of London's creativity.

In the early dawn of London Fashion Week's first day, before any catwalk presentation or official opening took place, or indeed any bombs exploding, lingerie brand Bluebella held its own special catwalk show, smack bang in the middle of Oxford Circus. Tourists and early birds were treated to lingerie-clad ladies, as part of their Dare to Bare campaign.

Victoria Secret Angels aside, Bluebella scouted its models on Instagram, with the aim to celebrate body confidence alongside their love of London and unique approach to life and fashion, causing quite a stir to unsuspecting commuters.

TeatumJones cast Paralympic star and amputee model

More inspiration came in the casting of Teatum Jones, where the Ravensbourne design duo cast Paralympian Natasha Baker and Vicky Balch. Balch lost her right leg after a rollercoaster crash at Alton Towers in 2015, and took to the catwalk in her prosthetic leg.

Interestingly, the topic of diversity is high on the list at global fashion weeks, as soon a more diverse catwalk this season. From not using underweight girls, to eliminating ethnic and size parameters, there is no longer a standard arbiter of what beauty is, except perhaps the girl's reach on Instagram and social media.

American brands like Coach have been quick to adopt a more diverse range of faces, making the stories it tells more interesting. "Personal style, politics and attitudes of models is now more important than ever, " says Vogue's casting director Ashley Brokaw on the context of the industry.

Ralph & Russo debut ready-to-wear

London-based couturiers Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo showed their first read-to-wear collection on the opening day of fashion week an update on modern glamour with a more affordable price tags. The collection saw the brand expanding its the brand DNA fusing traditionalism and contemporary artistry, reinterpreting signature styles from the little black dress to the classic tuxedo jacket. Elsewhere a skirt suit was reinterpreted as a contemporary chic option for evening, with gilded jackets and above the knee skirt in shimmery silver. On a cocktail gown, feathers nestled on the hem and neck of the tiered dress and a stand-out look was a double breasted trench in elegant gold could be worn as a dress or a coat.

Eudon Choi

At Eudon Choi, an influence of architect Eileen Gray was present, with references to a house she built in 1929 on the southern French coast, famed for its angular shapes which were woven throughout his collection. Diagonally pleated trousers were worn under double breasted jackets, shirts had scalloped sleeves and exuded volume. The sailor inspired shirts, especially where a hit when worn with silky trousers. Accessories came in the way of black and white leather sandals with ankle ties or crossover bandage.

Fiorucci store launch

The party to be seen on the inaugural day of fashion week was the Fiorucci store opening on Brewer Street in Soho. The Italian brand, credited with inventing the skinny jean opened a new three-storey store for which the fashion glitterati came out in force. Thankfully, no threat of terrorism kept the designers and brands at bay. Spirits were high and champagne flowing, just as fashion week ought to be.

Photo credit: Bluebella, source: Bluebella website; Eudon Choi, source: Eudon Choi Facebook; Ralph & Russo, source: RalphandRusso website; Teatum Jones, source: Teatum Jones Website

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London Fashion Week
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