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Milan Fashion Week round-up

By FashionUnited

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The mood for next season's menswear is definitely of an Arian utopia. Jil Sander launched the week with a mist-filled catwalk, reminiscent of a post-modern fairy tale. The House chose to open the show with a model wearing a stark, sharp cut suit in pale mint green, stripped down to its purest hue. The lightness of the collection and colours was juxtaposed with injections of navy and red. Highlights included techno fabrications for tailoring, which was exquisitely cut, and transparent shirts, majestically layered over white.

Christopher Bailey took a dive this season, favouring a surf-inspired collection for Burberry Prorsum. Surfwear-cum-macs made their way down the runway, layered over acid green, bright blues and reds. Not the most convincing show for a brand steeped in British history, perhaps. The gold finale failed to inspire, with outerwear and accessories being the most prominent for next season.

Neil Barrett may not be the most diverse brand showing in Milan, but his statement urban pieces are always hit, if not new. Washed leather jackets with his signature zips added to the rock n' roll attitude of biker vests, cropped trousers and black shoes, worn without socks.

Miuccia Prada favoured the Arian look, using mostly blonde-haired, blue eyed models, sent down the runway with Alexandrian, tousled locks. Reminiscent of Prada of yore, the collection featured beautiful tailoring worn over low-cut shirts, pajama-esque suits with muted florals and geometric checked shirts. A feeling of soft, vulnerable menswear come to the fore, a stark contrast against the autumnal colours of green and crimson. Whilst the jumpsuits are unlikely to become a wardrobe staple, the beautiful leather bags, retro-sunglasses with soft ochre lenses and vintage watches are next season's must-have accessories.

Dries van Noten showed a modern romantic collection by candlelight -1,500 candles in chandeliers suspended from cavernous ceilings, to be precise, at the stunning Palazzo Reale. The show opened with a sheer nylon pink coat, followed by a judo-esque wrap top in navy. Hot pink was a theme throughout the show, and made its way onto scarves, trousers and shirts. Van Noten's signature bohemian look was replaced by more contemporary urbanwear, favouring neat organza for shirting and a slim trouser silhouette.

Giorgio Armani was one of the few designers to pay tribute to Gianfranco Ferre at this show. Emporio Armani for next season showcased Italian sportswear and relaxed tailoring.

Milan Fashion Week