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New York Fashion Week Men's: old school cool and originality

By Kristopher Fraser

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Fashion

New York - The final day of New York Fashion Week: Men's saw brands like Hickey Freeman, Todd Snyder, Siki Im, and Kenneth Ning leaving everyone with an excellent taste in their mouths.

First up for the day was Kenneth Ning, who opted for a dark color palette this season with plenty of blacks and grey, but didn't disappoint his customers. While many are used to the designer doing a lot of ostentatious color like in previous season's collections, offerings like long mac coats with metal details still quenched the thirst of those lusting after out-of-the-box offerings. The collection, titled "Revenge," had a strong sense of originality because they broke away from the traditional concepts of men's tailoring.

Jackets with metal grommets, oversized zippers, and capes were all to be found, and any sense of the traditional was lost. For Ning, whose primary clients come from Japan, these deconstructed avante-garde garments are very popular in the East Asian market right now, so he knows how to hit home with his customer.

Then, of course, there was also men's wear master Siki Im. It's no secret that Im loves the gothic, and that was apparent with his color choices of black, burgundy, and purple. If his collection from last season was any indication, he loves things that are drapey and drop crotch pants. The drop crotch is making its return to menswear, but the designer isn't one for trends, he does his own thing. In 2015, the designer won the International Woolmark Prize, and while he's usually very known for his structured designs, he has become interested in designs more inspired by all of New York's boroughs.

Hickey Freeman,Siki Im, Todd Snyder, and Kenneth Ning help close out New York Fashion Week: Men's

That motif came through with offerings like baggy pants and the use of so much black.

On the other hand, there were those designers who rewinded back in time to the classics for their collection. Hickey Freeman was one such designer, with the majority of his collection worthy of a Mad Men episode. The brand proves time and time again that if you want quality luxurious tailoring, their Madison Avenue boutique is the place you want to head.

The collection was broken down into three sections. Highlands, the Strand, and Greenwich.

Highlands was creative director Arnold Brant Silverstone's take on the Scottish Highland's, and included suits in plaids and houndstooth, and dinner jackets in paisley jacquard. While Scotland is not exactly viewed as a fashion capital, Silverstone reminded us that those Scots certainly do have some dapper elements to their clothing.

The Strand was a few years ahead of the Mad Men era and took us back to those old school Wall Street days with big pinstripes and perfectly positioned lapels. Silverstone revealed that the brand will be opening a new store at Brookfield Place in the coming season, and New York customers will certainly be headed there to get their hands on the pieces from the Greenwich section come fall.

Greenwich was obviously the most contemporary New York themed of them all, with offerings like a cashmere overcoat with a vicuna collar, cashmere joggers, and a cotton-cashmere corduroy suit. Silverstone never disappoints with his elevated tastes, and knows how to keep his customer satisfied.

The man in charge of the finale for New York Fashion Week: Men's was Mr. Todd Snyder. The designer presented a whopping total of 48 looks for his collection, and showed his talents for mixing tailored clothing with utilitarian outerwear. Last year, the brand was acquired for 11 million dollars by American Eagle.

This new influx of cash will make it possible for Snyder to take his brand to the next level, although with the great offerings, it's a wonder what will be the next card up his sleeve.

There as no shortage of excellent outerwear with a stylish set of parks, quilted jackets, and toggle coats. There was also joggers and suiting trousers with a lower than average dropped crotch. While Snyder easily gravitates between formal and casual wear successful, he's not one for very tight silhouettes. He's more of the laid back American guy with style, which translated well through this collection.

While there was no shortage of glamour this week, the final day of NYFW: Men's reminded us that while American menswear is different from Milan or Paris, it is never to be ignored. The designers of this week brought their A game to the runways for another excellent week of menswear.

photos:via FashionGPS


Hickey Freeman
Kenneth Ning
New York Fashion Week Men's
Siki Im
Todd Snyder