Implementing the design houses’ typically experimental take on the subject of self-identity, Acne Studios presented a collection that merged historically-inspired pieces with futuristic design ideals for its new spring/summer 2022 collection.
It’s experimentation involved the combining of four underlying themes that each play with contrasting materials and techniques. These include chiffon and leather, plaid and lingerie, touched up knits and boundary-pushing corsets.
“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation,” explained Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, in a release. “The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted.”
Subtle colours hinted at the transition of seasons, with autumn hues of browns, beige and creams leading the way, occasionally conflicting with brighter greens and blues at brief intervals for a welcome contrast.
Chiffon shirts and full-length printed gowns stood strong next to structured, body-fitting leather pieces. Patchworked mini dresses and detailed trench coats formed purposely irregular leather designs, implementing lace up features that mirror that of their floatier counterparts.
Corsets played a huge role in the collection, some designed with baroque floral patterns, reminiscent of medievel-like garments though with futuristic twists. The traditionally handmade designs were reappropriated for the modern day, keeping their form only free of bodily constriction. They were styled with deconstructed skirts, frayed knits and sheer wrapped dresses, giving the historically-rich garment a new life and purpose.
Other references to the past came in the form of longjohn-inspired trousers in a subdued plaid design, a pattern also implemented into panelled tops and skirts to contrast with their mesh base. Further aspects of lingerie influences were shown in garter socks, created with corset lacing features.
Knitted and handcrocheted pieces were also highly evident throughout the line, with diamond-sewn items and rough techniques generating further irregular looks. A number of knitted coords graced the runway, in simplistic colour schemes that guided the focus to their figure-enhancing forms.