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SS23 Fashion month's top collections

By Trendstop

14 Oct 2022


Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the top collections from the international Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Month.

Across Fashion Month, designers have been delving deeper, going beyond surface aesthetics to foster a stronger connection between consumer and clothing. Exploring the realness and authenticity of hand making gave a new dimensionality to collections. Imperfections become integral design features, beautiful in their uniqueness whilst nature’s own designs provide the inspiration for print, motifs, shape and form, putting us back in touch with our earth.


Truth Seeking was the underlying message behind Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ collection that focused on exposing deeper meaning and reality rather than the superficial. Handcrafting and the natural imperfections created by a human touch came through in the use of humble paper for dresses, their colours and prints mismatched. White outlines around necks or hems and raw edged fabrics that lent an unfinished quality to the work. Clean, tapered silhouettes, stripped of excess volume and adornment reinforced the modesty and lack of artifice behind the collection.

Dries Van Noten

Starting out with an all-black palette, Dries Van Noten honed in on texture, construction and shape. Spongy handled fabrics pinned and gathered in swirls, placement ruffles on dresses, tees and shoes, and tendrils of fringe adorning bags and coats added dimensionality to clean, precise cuts. Colours evolved from inky darks into pale, washed hues with macrame, haphazard creasing and optimistic floral print collages that spoke to the realness and spontaneity of human creativity and making by hand.

Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai reconsidered traditional crafts and elements from nature with a contemporary eye. Fossil and shell motifs were reinterpreted in machine knitted crochets peppered with natural stones. Draped leathers and jerseys were smooth and fluid, interspersed with placement craftinging details and tortoise shell or stone trims to add texture and surface interest. Outerwear and tailoring with subtle signs of deconstruction and deftly applied artistic prints introduced further human touches to the slick and sophisticated showing.

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Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.