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Post-Bangladesh fashion industry initiative inventory

By FashionUnited

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The fashion business world’s fundament was shaking

as the fundaments of the Rana Plaza factory building in Bangladesh literally collapsed. Everybody is aware of the wry reality that it often takes disasters and crises to bring about fundamental changes. Having said that, everybody realizes also that this is the time to make real improvements.
 
A good article in the Economist on the Rana Plaza factory disaster noted that there are three things that companies can do. They can get out of Bangladesh quick, they can stay and try to improve the situation or they can stay and pretend nothing happened.
 
The second option seems to be where most of the action is. The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh is signed by 30 + mainly European companies. In the US and Canada, associations have devised a North American Safety Initiative. In addition, some companies such as Gap say that they have their own programs into place. The Accord was hailed as a breakthrough because it introduced binding financial obligations by the signees.
 
None of the initiatives are uncontended of course. In a characteristically provocative piece, David Birnbaum wrote that he believes financial support by buyers will not improve things and lays the blame too much on the buyers in the eyes of the public. On the other hand, I would argue that it is the ground breaking move by the companies that have signed the accord that has gone a long way to salvaging the public image of the fashion industry.
 
Fortunately this discussion has not reached the end consumer. Even though consumers often seem to vote with their wallet when shopping and not with their conscience, it is unavoidable that these terrible disasters are hurting the image of the fashion industry. At some point this must have an influence on buying behavior. Disagreements inside industry can further hurt the image. Before this happens, the industry has to find a way to move forward together after Rana Plaza. The International Apparel Federation (IAF) is committed to maximizing the gains companies get from global cooperation. So, how is it planning to act on this commitment in the case of Bangladesh?
 
Firstly, the IAF represents through its 40+ national industry association members all of the apparel brands and manufacturers and not just the very large ones. It will be interesting to see in what practical ways also smaller companies can support the necessary improvements in factory safety in Bangladesh. The IAF is acting as a trait d’union between the different agreements now signed and its member industry associations.

Secondly, a way must be found for the total industry to communicate that they are out there improving the situation, working together to prevent such disasters from taking place again. And, for a large part, the industry is of course already working hard to make the improvements. But there are many initiatives and consumers do not always see the whole picture. A broader framework for all to follow, such as the UN’s Ruggie Guiding Principles, could help to communicate unity and a sense of the (right) direction. The IAF will present an action plan shortly which includes the quest for this broader framework.
 
And what can companies do in the meantime when they want to make a contribution to preventing further factories from disappearing into heaps of rubble? I would recommend that they check with their association to see how they can best get involved with a broader, preferably a global initiative. If for some reason this is not possible, then just drop an email to Matthijs Crietee at [email protected].
 
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