Always on the look out for fresh talent, trade show Margin confirmed a host of new brands for August 2010. Besides up and coming labels, Margin will also showcase established brands. Garcia Madrid will present their mens tailoring, casualwear andaccessories for the very first time at Margin. Their sharp and high quality menswear is inspired by art and design. Ethical Boston based brand Ideologie will also make their UK debut. The organic clothing company is known for their ethical philosophy and on-trend art prints. Cult brand Silas are making their UK return exclusively at Margin, and will sit alongside brands such as Obey, Dephect, and RVCA who have not exhibited in the UK for over two years.
Launched in 2002, independent tradeshow Margin is the brainchild of Odysseas Constantine. Offering directional clothing for both men and women, the exhibition is a platform for new design talent to exhibit and expose their collections to the British and international fashion trade and press.
Image: Garcia Madrid SS10
Monday at 5pm marked a cause for celebration as FashionUnited.co.uk this year secured a spot on Leon Bailey-Green’s renowned Online Fashion Top 100 list. The fashion world was boiled over with excitement at the announcementof who made the eagerly anticipated industry-judged list, which also included bloggers, directors, entrepreneurs, politicians and even celebrities (yes, we are officially rubbing shoulders with entertainment mogul Simon Cowell).
FashionUnited is an international business-to-business platform for the fashion industry that operates news websites in Europe, India and the USA. According to the experts, FashionUnited.co.uk has been one of the most popular fashion industry news sources since its launch in 1999.
Before unveiling the list, Consultant and founder of The Online Fashion Agency, Bailey-Green said: “It is estimated that Britons will spend £4.27bn on fashion online this year, but who are the people behind our fashion website businesses? You’re about to find out who they are, what they do and how they impact the industry.”
He also commented: “As the founder of The Online Fashion Agency, a fashion website communications company, it is noticeable how much the fashion sector of the UK’s digital economy is evolving. Whether you’re a consumer, eager to become savvy to the workings behind the online fashion scenes, or an online fashion professional, interested in learning about others in the industry, I’m sure you’ll find Online Fashion 100 useful.”
FashionUnited thanks the team of expert judges for this honour, but most of all we would like to thank our loyal readers who visit our sites day-on-day and keep us firmly on our toes – you are top on our list.
The top 100 listed in alphabetical order:
1. KAREN ALLEN & NEIL SANSOM
M AND M DIRECT (WWW.MANDMDIRECT.COM )
2. LIZ ALLEN
INSIDE JOHN LEWIS (WWW.BBC.CO.UK/PROGRAMMES/B00RHGX0)
3. SUSAN AUBREY-COUND & STEVE ROWE
MARKS & SPENCER (WWW.MARKSANDSPENCER.COM)
4. IAN BALDWIN & NINA TSANG
FASHION MONITOR (WWW.FASHIONMONITOR.COM)
5. ANNA BANCE*
GIRL MEETS DRESS (WWW.GIRLMEETSDRESS.COM)
6. NICK BEIGHTON & JAMES HART
7. IRIS BEN-DAVID*
8. BRETT BENNETT & SIMON FORSTER
9. WARREN BENNETT & DAVID HATHIRAMANI*
A SUIT THAT FITS.COM (WWW.ASUITTHATFITS.COM)
10. JAMES BILEFIELD & DYLAN JONES
CONDE NAST DIGITAL/GQ (WWW.CONDENAST.CO.UK)
11. COURTNEY BLACKMAN
FASHION BUSINESS CLUB (WWW.FASHIONBUSINESSCLUB.NET)
12. DAN BRITCHER
13. JESSICA BROWN & KEELY STOCKER
14. JONATHON BROWN
JOHN LEWIS (WWW.JOHNLEWIS.COM)
15. RISHI BUBNA
ALOK INDUSTRIES/STORE TWENTY ONE (WWW.STORETWENTYONE.CO.UK)
16. ANGELA BUTTOLPH
GRAZIA DAILY (WWW.GRAZIADAILY.CO.UK)
17. DR VINCENT CABLE MP & JEREMY HUNT MP
HER MAJESTY’S GOVERNMENT (WWW.NUMBER10.GOV.UK)
18. TOM CAHALAN
LOST FERRET (WWW.LOSTFERRET.CO.UK)
19. FRANCES CARD*
MATCHES/FRANCES CARD CONSULTANCY (WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM)
20. JONNY CHALLENGER
STYLE COMPARE/INGENIOUS (WWW.STYLECOMPARE.CO.UK)
21. GRAHAM CHARLTON & ASHLEY FRIEDLEIN
22. SARAH CLELLAND
SNOW VALLEY/PUBLISHING (WWW.SNOWVALLEY.COM)
23. SILVIA CODY & NISH KUKADIA*
24. FEARNE COTTON & HOLLY WILLOUGHBY
25. SIMON COWELL & SIR PHILIP GREEN
26. SARAH CURRAN & LAUREN STEVENSON
27. SOPHIE CROYDON
RENT YOUR ROCKS (WWW.RENTYOURROCKS.CO.UK)
28. MALIKA DALAMAL
DAILY CANDY (WWW.DAILYCANDY.COM/LONDON)
29. CERI DAVIES
CLOTHING AT TESCO (WWW.CLOTHINGATTESCO.COM)
30. PETER DAVIES & LIZ HOUGHTON
MINT VELVET (WWW.MINTVELVET.CO.UK)
31. VICKI DAY & KATRINA URWIN
THE FASHION NETWORK (WWW.THEFASHIONNETWORK.CO.UK)
32. BAUKJEN DE SWAAN ARONS & GEOFF VAN SONSBEECK
ISABELLA OLIVER (WWW.ISABELLAOLIVER.COM)
34. FEE DRUMMOND
MAMA LA MODE (WWW.MAMA-LA-MODE.COM)
35. JOHN DUTTON
36. FIONA FAIRWEATHER & RICHARD KIRK
37. MARIO FAURE *
MIX MATCH ME (WWW.MIXMATCHME.COM)
38. DOM FENDIUS*
39. ALEXANDRA FINLAY
FINS FOR HIM (WWW.FINSFORHIM.COM)
40. JODY FORD
41. LEE FRIEND
42. ROBIN GOARD & JAMES ROPER
43. POLLY GOULD & KATIE PRICE
THE OFFICIAL JORDAN’S CLOSET/KP EQUESTRIAN (STORES.EBAY.CO.UK/THE-OFFICIAL-JORDANS-CLOSET)
44. ELLA GREGORY*
COCOS TEA PARTY (WWW.COCOSTEAPARTY.COM)
45. JULIAN GREGORY & DANIEL JAEMS
46. RUTH GRIFFIN
LIBERTY/FORMERLY MATCHES (WWW.LIBERTY.CO.UK)
47. JENNY HAYDEN
THE STYLE PA/DEBENHAMS (WWW.THESTYLEPA.COM)
48. LUKE HERON
49. JAANA JATYRI
TREND STOP (WWW.TRENDSTOP.COM)
50. MICHAELA JEDINAK*
JOY OF CLOTHES (WWW.JOYOFCLOTHES.COM)
51. DAGMARA JONASOVA
AMETHYST GROUP (WWW.AMETHYSTGROUP-UK.COM/FASHIONANDBEAUTY)
52. GARETH JONES & MARK NEWTON-JONES
SHOP DIRECT (WWW.SHOPDIRECT.COM)
53. CATHERINE KALLON
RED CARPET FASHION AWARDS (WWW.REDCARPET-FASHIONAWARDS.COM)
54. DANA KARLSON
55. KRISTINE KIRBY & MICHAEL WOOD
FAT FACE/FORMERLY LIPSY (WWW.FATFACE.COM)
56. SAUL KLEIN & DOMINIQUE VIDAL*
INDEX VENTURES (WWW.INDEXVENTURES.COM)
57. NICK KNIGHT
58. ALISON LANCASTER
WHITE STUFF/ALISON LANCASTER CONSULTING (WWW.WHITESTUFF.COM)
59. SUSANNA LAU
STYLE BUBBLE (WWW.STYLEBUBBLE.CO.UK)
60. VISHAL LAXMANDAHYA
RED LABEL FASHION (WWW.REDLABELFASHION.COM)
61. PAUL LEWIS
62. FRANK LORD
63. JUSTIN LORD
BT FRESCA (WWW.BTEXPEDITE.COM)
64. KATIE MACKAY & JOE SINCLAIR*
WHAT KATIE WORE (WWW.WHATKATIEWORE.COM)
65. NUPUR MANCHANDA*
NEW LOOK (WWW.NEWLOOK.COM)
66. JESS MARKWOOD
OSOYOU/AIGUA MEDIA (WWW.OSOYOU.COM)
67. NATALIE MASSENET & JOHANN RUPERT*
MIGGY LIKES THE INTERNET (WWW.MIGGYLIKESTHEINTERNET.COM)
69. LENNARD MINDERHOUD
FASHION UNITED (WWW.FASHIONUNITED.CO.UK)
70. ALICIA NAVARRO & JOE STEPNIEWSKI*
71. JOSÉ NEVES*
72. MARTIN NEWMAN
73. KRISTINA O’CONNOR
STORE SOCIETY (WWW.STORESOCIETY.COM)
74. BECKY OLIE
HOUSE OF FRASER (WWW.HOUSEOFFRASER.CO.UK)
75. FERGAL O’MULLANE
Online Fashion 100 2010/11
COPYRIGHT © 2010 LEON BAILEY-GREEN & THE ONLINE FASHION AGENCY LTD
Download the complete list with background information on http://www.leonbaileygreen.com/userfiles/LEONBAILEYGREEN-ONLINE-FASHION-100-2010-11.pdf
The British Fashion Council announced that ten of London’s most exciting emerging menswear fashion design talents will receive sponsorship from its designer support initiative NEWGEN MEN sponsored byTopman. All recipients will receive business support,funding and the opportunity to use the official BFC venue to host either a catwalk show or, for the first time, a presentation or an installation during London Fashion Week’s (LFW) Menswear Day, on Wednesday 22nd September 2010. The recipients of NEWGEN MEN for catwalk sponsorship are James Long, Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson. Presentation sponsorship go to Carolyn Massey, Lou Dalton and SIBLING. Installation sponsorship is allocated to Christopher Raeburn, James Small, Katie Eary and Omar Kashoura.
Simon Ward, Joint Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council commented “Within a year NEWGEN MEN has developed from an experimental pilot scheme to a successful talent identification and designer support initiative, highlighting how British menswear design talent is forging a reputation for innovation on a global platform.”
Tim Blanks, Contributing Editor, Style.com and a member of the British Fashion Council's Menswear Committee said, “Menswear is on the move all over the world. It's almost as though some kind of group mind dictated that here was an opportunity to do something new, and that seems to have sparked the creativity of young designers. London has a long and honourable tradition of breeding this species, so there's an air of inevitability about the coming together of medium and talent under the menswear umbrella. That air is thickened by the knowledge that London is also, in many ways, the home of men's fashion as we know it. Which means that the menswear community here embraces all sorts, from the Savile Row traditionalist to the Hackney rebel, with a platoon of jewellers, hatters, knitters and cobblers as artisanal satellites.
Jason Griffiths, Marketing Director, Topman, who was also on the selection panel, adds "This season NEWGEN MEN boldly expands further with the introduction of new exciting tiers in the form of presentations and installations to further compliment the catwalk shows which have formed part of the Menswear Day over the last two seasons already. A strong indication yet again highlighting the ever increasing maturity of the new breed of Menswear designers operating in the UK today. Topman is proud and excited to be part of this continuing men’s fashion revolution.”
London Fashion Week’s womenswear shows will run from Friday 17th – Tuesday 21st September 2010, and menswear collections will be shown on Wednesday 22nd September.
Image: Carolyn Massey
Besides committing to your New Year’s resolutions in 2010, this January the retail industry will have to commit to a VAT rise of 20% from 17,5% by the coalition Government. The VAT hike is delayed with half a year and gives consumers andretailers some more time to adjust.
The new tax rate would raise £13bn per year and would cancel out other cuts or income tax rises, according to Chancellor George Osbourne. The rise would bring the UK more in line with the rest of Europe, as currently Britain has the fourth lowest VAT rate. Only Luxembourg (15%), Cyprus (15%) and Spain (16%) charge less tax and Denmark and Sweden have the highest VAT rate of 25%.
Due to the tax measures retail shares are currently increasing, as bargain hunters are looking for the best buys of the moment. It is quite likely the market will look up by the increasing retail shares and profit by the delayed VAT hike.
Children’s clothing, most food, newspapers and magazines will stay VAT free.
Gap unveiled details of its entry into China with plans to open Gap stores in Beijing and Shanghai in late 2010, and simultaneously bring an online shopping experience to all Chinese consumers. The first four Gap stores will feature a full rangeof Gap adult, GapKids and babyGap product, including all styles of the brand’s stylish and fashionable 1969 Premium Jeans.
This announcement marks the start of a long-term, multi-channel consumer market entry strategy for Gap Inc. that involves more stores in major regions, including Hong Kong, in the coming year.
As vibrant urban centers in China, Shanghai and Beijing have been chosen as the ideal locations for the first Gap stores, which will be wholly owned and operated.
In Shanghai, a 1,796 square meter Gap flagship will be located on the premier Nanjing West Road, occupying two floors in the Venture Tech building. It will be followed by another 1,140 square meter flagship located on Mid Huaihai Road, one of Shanghai’s top high streets.
In Beijing, a 1,165 square meter flagship store will span two floors in the APM building on Wanfujing Street; another 1,800 square meter store will be opened in Chaobei Joy City, a large scale regional shopping center.
As part of its multi-channel entry strategy, Gap Inc. has partnered with Shanghai Yi Shang Network Information Co., Ltd., an e-commerce company with a legacy of delivering online retail experience in China. The online shopping site will give consumers throughout the country the opportunity to shop for Gap products whenever and wherever they want.
To lead these expansion efforts, the company has appointed Redmond Yeung as President, China for Gap Inc., and Lorenzo Moretti, as Managing Director, China for Gap Inc.
“For over 15 years, we've been increasing our connection to global consumers by offering Gap's American inspired casual style to now over 25 countries,” said Glenn Murphy, Chairman and CEO, Gap Inc. “Now, after spending a lot of time listening to Chinese consumers and learning more about their shopping preferences, we’re excited at the prospect of meeting their fashion needs -- initially by bringing our Gap designs to our stores and online later this year.”
Murphy continued: “We’ve appreciated all the guidance we’ve received from Chinese government entities as well as business partners, and we’re confident that the combination of a seasoned team of executives as well as our initial investment of four Gap stores in world famous urban centers will help us to successfully integrate our brands over time into China’s dynamic retail market.”
Image: Gap SS10
H&M said third quarter sales were up 22% from last year, but warned that relatively weak sales in April and May had left a stockpile of unsold spring garments. The Financial Times warned his could lead to heavier discounting than previouslyplanned over the summer, the company warned.
The Stockholm-based company, the world’s third-largest fashion retailer, behind Gap of the US and Inditex of Spain, attributed the sluggish spring sales to unusually cold weather across its key northern European markets during the period.
Second-quarter net profits rose almost a quarter from last year to SKr5.21bn, narrowly below analysts’ consensus forecasts. But the gross margin was slightly better than expected at 65.9 per cent with the company benefiting from lower purchasing costs because of a weaker dollar.
Investors are looking closely at European retailers for any sign of renewed weakness in consumer spending as countries including Spain and the UK announce aggressive budget cuts to reduce deficits. Eurozone retail sales fell 1.2 per cent in April.
H&M said its second-quarter sales had risen 2 per cent to SKr27bn, helped by a wave of store openings across Europe, the US and Asia. But like-for-like sales – those made in outlets open for more than a year – fell 4 per cent in May, almost twice the drop analysts had forecast.
Shares in H&M were down about 4 per cent on Thursday morning at SKr223.10, but they remain up by almost a quarter from a year ago.
The company, known for its “cheap chic” style and collaborations with high-profile designers, said it remained committed to an aggressive expansion strategy that would see 180 stores open during the second half, mostly in Europe, the US and China. It currently operates more
than 2,000 outlets in 35 countries.
Image: H&M campaign
John Galliano has received the prestigious French Legion of Honour award. Presented by president Nicolas Sarkoz at the Elysée Palace in Paris, Galliano received the ranking of Chevalier (the equivalent of Knight) for his 14 years of work at theiconic French fashion house Dior.
The 49-year-old now joins the ranks of designers Valentino, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, and Ralph Lauren, who have also been decorated with the medal.
"I am honored and humbled to receive this award that I share with you all," said Galliano.
To celebrate the honor, the Gibraltar-born designer, in a big broad-brimmed hat, tailcoat, and braided pigtails, was joined by friend Kate Moss, LVMH head Bernard Arnault, and frequent collaborators milliner Stephen Jones, shoemaker Manolo Blahnik, famed wig creator Julien d'Ys, and makeup artist Pat McGrath (take a look at their amazing work for Dior here).
"He taught me how to walk when I was 14," Moss, clad in an asymmetrical Dior dress, said of Galliano.
"I've always admired what he's done," Blahnik said. "And yet I feel like he's just getting started."
Image: John Galliano & Kate Moss
Uzbekistan’s cotton production has come under fire as forced child labour is still widespread in its fields. In spite of international campaigns, there is no sign of abatement in state-sponsored forced child labour used to harvest cotton in Uzbekistan.A new report – Slave Nation – from the Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF) estimates that up to two million children were forced to pick cotton during the 2009 harvesting season in Uzbekistan.
EJF is a UK-based non-governmental organisation leading a coalition campaigning to bring an end to child labour in the Uzbek cotton industry.
Child rights campaigns spurred the Uzbek government to sign two International Labour Organisation conventions on child labour in 2008. But the on-the-ground situation remains unchanged.
Uzbekistan, an authoritarian state still ruled by a Soviet-era ruler, is the world’s sixth largest cotton producer, annually harvesting 1m tonnes of cotton from an estimated 1m hectares of cotton fields. The country is the world’s third largest cotton exporter, earning more than $1bn from the crop each year.
The Uzbek cotton farmers must sell their entire produce to state-owned trading companies at a price fixed by the government. The government shuts down all schools, colleges and several other offices during the three months harvesting season. School children, as young as six, teachers and local civil servants are then marched to cotton fields to harvest the crop.
For three months, the child workers and others have to live in deplorable conditions in crowded dormitories and pay for their own food from the paltry sum paid for their labour.
Bangladesh, currently a favourite sourcing destination for multinational clothing retailers, is believed to be the largest customer of Uzbek cotton. European brands accounts for two-thirds of garments produced in Bangladesh.
Vietnam, another preferred sourcing base for multinational brands, also figures high on the list of key customers of Uzbek cotton, which also include China, Russia, Iran, Pakistan, India, South Korea and Turkey.
The Uzbek government boasted in October 2009 that “there is a growing need for the Uzbek cotton fibre in south-east Asia, where the textile industry is rapidly developing”. International criticism did not deter more than 300 companies from 34 countries to attend the fifth International Uzbek Trade Fair in October last year and sign contracts to buy cotton.
Under pressure from campaigners, a number of retailers including Tesco, Wal-Mart, Asda, Marks & Spencer, Levi’s, Nike and Gap have said they will not support the use of Uzbek cotton in their products. Some of them, such as Wal-Mart, have officially banned Uzbek cotton.
But retailers do not have any mechanism to enforce the ban. The only way to prevent Uzbek cotton getting into their products is to establish a traceability system to track each ounce of cotton from the factory to right back to the fields. Currently, such traceability is applied only for organic cotton.
UK retailer Tesco has taken the lead by starting to implement a cotton supply chain traceability system by using a country-of-origin paper trail. EJF director Juliette Williams says that her organisation is working with 14 retailers to help them develop a traceability system.
“Pressure from companies is a key means to keep the issue in the spotlight and ensure that other influential decision makers take action,” Williams says. She says that engaging more and more companies and trade associations throughout the supply chain is an important next step.
But a more concerted action is needed to address the problem. “The international community must play its role in persuading the government to relinquish its grasp over cotton and the people who grow it,” Williams says.
Image: The cost of a cheap t-shirt