Pure aims to become London's biggest menswear & womenswear trade fair

Things were abuzz this season at fashion trade fair Pure London, as the UK's largest show introduced menswear, shook up its layout and launched over 300 new brands in its ongoing quest to bring 'newness' to its buyers and retailers. "This season we really set about re-editing the show," said Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Pure London.

Pure London enjoys positive start to its AW16 edition

The event, which opened its door on Sunday, February 14, kicked off on a high note and the sunshine outside seem to reflected the positive atmosphere spanning throughout the event. Many of the visitors at Pure were quick to noticed all the changes implemented this season, from the new floor layout, to the artistically led theme and re-division of Premium footwear and apparel. "Really loved the new layout this season," said Deryane Todd, founder of womenswear boutique The Dressing Room to FashionUnited. "The new floor plan has really opened up the show and made it easier for visitors to walk from the front of the show all the way to the back." She added that the addition of more seating areas and food halls was especially appreciated by buyers and visitors alike, improving the overall buying experience.

Yet one of the hot topics of debate throughout the duration of Pure was its menswear launch, which saw 60 menswear exhibitors show at Pure for the first time. "We've had a very positive start for menswear this season," said Adam Gough, head of menswear. "The general mood has been very buoyant and most brands are positive about the show." Although Pure previously announced plans to launch its menswear segment last year, the trade fair's organizers i2i Event Groups, felt it was best to postpone the launch to ensure the new area had the optimal location for footfall. "We decided to launch menswear now because it felt like the right time in the market," added Gough, noting that the previous location for menswear, at the back of fair did not feel quite right. "We wanted it right in the front of the show, alongside Premium, so that visitors could really feel that 'wow factor'".

Pure London aims to offer the best of womenswear and menswear

Part of the reasoning behind Pure's menswear launch is linked to the rise of menswear in general, as well to the growing demand for London to host its own unisex trade fair, to run alongside the likes of some of the larger European trade fairs such as Panorama, Who's Next and CIFF. "Our aim is to become a bigger trade show, to run alongside other European trade fairs and offer buyers the best of both womenswear and menswear," said Gough, as Pure aims to double its number of menswear exhibitors next season. "We want Pure to become the London trade fair for menswear and womenswear and cater for all the industry," stressed Driscoll, adding that they have the space in an additional hall to grow in the future. But Pure aims to work closely with its exhibitors and buyers to make it happen, as it likely to "take some time," noted Driscoll.

Although most of the reactions to the introduction of menswear were positive, there were a number of mixed feelings on the location of the debut area, as well as the variety of brands shown together from exhibitors, as well as its lack of 'wow factor.' "To be honest, I am a bit disappointed in menswear this season," said Aoife Burke, wholesale product and sales support manager at British lifestyle brand White Stuff. "I feel like the menswear debut is missing one or two really strong or key lifestyle brands, such as Joules." White Stuff is known for both its casual womenswear as well as menswear, but the brand decided to show both categories together in Pure's Aspire section, in a large and colourfully built stand - a decision which seems to have been the right choice as the stand has been a hive of activity throughout the event. "We've had two really busy days and I think Sunday was our busiest day to date at Pure," added Burke, who attributes the success to the collections new design direction as well as Pure's new direction.

Mixed feelings on Pure's menswear launch

Another lifestyle brand to voice some concern to Pure’s menswear launch was Brakeburn. "I am not 100 percent sure on menswear this season," said founder Nick Jackson. Presenting the label's womenswear and accessories together at Pure, Jackson chose not to showcase menswear arm of Brakeburn this season. This was in part due to a lack of stand space as well as reluctance to move the entire stand to menswear, as he believes the brand would lose out on menswear buyers assumes it is a ladies or “sissy brand” as well as womenswear boutique buyers who are unlikely to be ventured into a dedicated menswear sections. "I just feel like Pure could learn a lot from bigger European trade shows like Who's Next and Panorama, in terms of branding and layout," he stressed. After bringing the brand's menswear, womenswear and accessories lines to show at united stand at Panorama, in Berlin earlier this season, he feels like Pure has potential to develop into the London trade fair for womens and menswear, which is i2i Events Group overall aim for Pure, but was not overly impressed with the initial brands exhibiting. In the meantime he will continue to show Brakeburn’s menswear arm at Moda and look into other menswear trade fairs, such as Jacket Required.

"I think we are really missing a unified show in London and I think Pure could be the one, but I am not sure yet. Menswear just feels very varied and mixed - maybe too mixed and too widely spread out from each other on the market." Some of the menswear exhibitors FashionUnited spoke to reflected this sentiment. "Honestly, I am not sure if Pure is the right fit for our brand, as the other menswear brands showing seem to sit at a different level than where we are," said Ian Holdcroft, director at British heritage brand Shackleton. The Made-in-the-UK brand stood out from neighboring brands thanks to its unique stand display, featuring photographs from Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic expedition which inspired the brand, and saw it win the best menswear stand. "We've had a great experience, really wonderful first time show for a brand," stressed Holdcroft, adding that they had received a lot of interest from buyers, agents and distributor. But Holdcroft still questioned if Pure would be able to find the right balance between womenswear and menswear.

Pure London missing balance between menswear and womenswear

Managing director for vintage-inspired womenswear label, King Louie, Jeroen Dijkema, also raised questions surrounding Pure’s balance between menswear and womenswear. “I am really happy that they launched menswear at Pure and I think it went well. Brands should try to understand that it is the first time and it can take time to get the balance right but I hope they managed to make it thrive and grow so that it can become a strong addition.” The brand, which held off on attending the trade fair circuit in the UK until now, was named the winner of the best women's wear stand, which was completely unexpected. “We are really happy that we won an award right off the bat, I did not not expect it at all,” added Dijkema. The brand’s stand, which featured wallpaper showcasing the brand in-house designed patterns, vintage lamps as well as a matching sofa and wall decor ensure the stand stood out from the crowd. “We’ve have a really great first time here. I think we’ve had 15 to 20 clients come and place orders with us straight away, which is great.” Although Dijkema acknowledges that part of the brand’s success stems from its stand, he is aware that not all brands, especially up and coming or emerging brands, will necessarily have the budget to build a stand like theirs. “But I do think it is important for middle brands and growing brands to translate their stories through stands and displays,” he said, noting that perhaps not enough brands at Pure made the effort.

However, Pure has introduced a new shelf scheme this season, after about 15 years which has seen very “worthwhile results,” according to the portfolio director. “It’s the same thing that every great department store does, they always reinvent their shelf scheme and shelf display to keep everything fresh,” said Driscoll, who sees Pure as “the department store show for the trade”. This is in part why Pure London chose to postpone its annual ‘Best of British Independent Retailer Awards’ and instead host the ‘Best Stand Display Award’ this season, in order to celebrate and highlight its new shelf scheme and interiors. “We also hoped it would encourage brands to work together on creating a great stand, which really shares the brand story.” One brand who received much praise for its unique stand display and shelving scheme this season was Odd Molly. “I love that Odd Molly is here this season and I love their stand,” said Jackson, from Brakeburn, who complimented their display and shelf scheme. In fact, Maria Westin, account manager from the Swedish women’s wear brand, noted that part of the reason they chose to bring the brand to Pure over Scoop was because the former trade fair gave them the freedom to build their own display. “Which is important to us because we want to tell our brand story and because it also gives buyers inspiration on how they show their products,” she said, noting that some retailers even buying the stands as well in order to showcase the whole brand story in-store.

“Pure is missing that WOW factor when you come in”

However, some exhibitors and retailers noted that the wow effect from stands was lacking by the entrance to the show. “That’s another thing Pure could learn from abroad,” said Jackson. “When you walk in Panorama, you see all these grand and inspiring stands - but here when you walk in what do you see? A bunch of plain, white menswear stands.” Driscoll acknowledges that perhaps Pure’s entrance was lacking in it’s wow factor this season, but assures they are working on building it up again. “Rome was not built in a day,” she said with a laugh. She also attributes the lack of big brands and stands by the entrance this season to the show’s new layout, which saw a number of the larger, women’s wear brands in the middle of the show, surrounding the catwalk. “Every brand has different priorities and preference, but the new edit has allowed the visitors flow to be more evenly spread and for people the really walk around the whole show.”

“We have been brave this season with all the new changes, from marketing to edit to theme, to menswear to mixing premium footwear with womenswear in the front of the show,” admitted Driscoll, “But the response has been really good so far and gives the show a new feeling.” This sense of newness, is after all what retailers and buyers are looking for when they come to Pure, she added. And remains confident that they will keep coming to Pure as long as they offer that.