PFW: Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati showed his final collection for the house of Yves Saint Laurent on Monday. Streamlined,

high octane glamour was the backdrop, with a focus on wasp waists, leather, chain mail dresses and lily print eveningwear.

Some of the looks were modern fetishist, such as the leather tunics worn by models with slicked back hair and blood red lips. At Celine, for example, they felt more sporty than dominatrix. The lily symbolised the Roman equivalent of lust, but also lent a romantic edge among the more decadent looks.

The standing ovation from the press indicated Pilati's reign at YSL since 2004 has not gone by unappreciated. Even Yves Saint Laurent quipped his approval, after Pilati took over from Tom Ford. That must have been the ultimate accolade.