Chloe and Hannah MacGibbon part ways

Since Paris Fashion Week, rumours have been rife that creative director Hannah MacGibbon would not see her contract at Chloe renewed. After a slew of negative publicity from the Autumn Winter 2012 show, the house has confirmed MacGibbon

is to pursue 'other interests' whilst former Pringle designer Clare Waight Keller will take the lead from June 1st.

Back in March, the New York Times' editor Eric Wilson wrote: MacGibbon's "contract is up after this season, according to people knowledgeable about the house, who said the reaction to her show on Monday could determine whether her contract is renewed. That said, it's unusual for a designer to negotiate a new contract so close to the expiration date of his or her last one, and what's more, Chloé is said to have already interviewed other designers."

We are grateful to Hannah for her contribution and commitment to Chloé," CEO Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye said in a statement. "Her considerable talents will be missed; we are proud to count Hannah among the hall of fame of great designers who have marked the history of Chloé since 1952. I wish Hannah well in her new projects."

This of course sounds as if it were a very rosy and amicable split, but few will believe this is the case. De la Bourdonnaye was appointed as CEO only last summer, following the swift exit of Ralph Toledano. Toledano was reportedly pushed out by his new boss Marty Wikstrom, who heads up Richmont's fashion and accessories businesses. Other brands Richmont owns include Azzadine Alaia and Shanghai Tang.

Reports that MacGibbon did not see eye with the new CEO adds perspective to her departure. At a time when profits are the most important factor, creative directors are no longer indisposable. Especially if their visions are creative, but not commercial enough.

But is Claire Waight Keller the best choice for the house? Keller, who left Pringle 'to spend more time with her family', is currently expecting her 3rd child this month. With the SS12 show only a few month's away, a designer's first season will be crucial, and highly commented on. It certainly cannot be pulled off with part time hours of its creative head.

De la Bourdonnaye's choice for Keller was her ability to expand a brand and lead a team. Pringle, too, has had its fair share of volatility, and despite its recent successes, the brand is not the first name on editor's lips. Even John Smedley is more of a go to brand for British knitwear.

The fashion industry is changing, and leading brands must make money. Lots of it. Perhaps MacGibbon's collections were too purist, too whimsical, without the commercial bang that was needed to impress the new management team. But catwalks should be a moment of presenting a fantasy. The commercial pieces end up in the store, but not on the runway, as everyone knows. MacGibbon may have channeled the 70s too literal for many a critic, but her aesthetic was consistent and it was luxe. We know what Chloe stood with MacGibbon's collections.

We will watch closely to see if the house of Chloe has found its direction with the new appointments in place.

Image: Hannah MacGibbon