Copenhagen trade shows at the crossroads

The Scandinavian fashion metropolis Copenhagen is facing a shakeup. Since the global financial crisis struck, fashion organisers have been scrambling to develop new concepts. The return of the Bread & Butter show

in Berlin is a major competitor. Although the direct consequences of the crisis have meanwhile subsided, Danes have become more frugal and purchase fewer fashion items. Trade shows are forced to adjust to this weakening domestic market. Their common goal is therefore to attract a greater number of international buyers to the domestic brands.

However, fundamental, in part tedious changes are required for this purpose. The responsible parties have finally brought themselves to implement them. And so this years’ fashion week was a sign of change. Plenty of innovations are on the way for next season.

The Gallery trade show is likely least affected by these changes. It survived the crisis well which is not surprising given that it managed to compile the most convincing exhibition portfolio that is equally attractive to foreign buyers. It features established Danish brands, including By Marlene Birger or Soulland alongside the best domestic newcomers such as Stine Ladefoged or Tabernacle Twins as well as exciting foreign brands like Lala Berlin. The visitor numbers have risen commensurately: 11’465 industry professionals attended the show, 1 per cent more than last February and 5 per cent more than in August. Among them were buyers from renowned foreign retailers such as Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Barneys or Colette, and this was a particularly important fact for trade show director Christian Gregersen. ”The mood at the trade show was extremely upbeat,” said Gregersen. Exhibitors and visitors alike shared his assessment.

Although the Gallery show had virtually no problems, the recent situation has been much bleaker for other shows. As a result, fundamental changes are being planned. For example, CPH Vision and its sister show Terminal-2 specialising in jeans and street wear will be combined next August, exhibiting their merchandise in the halls of the former locomotive workshop already used by Terminal-2 now. Both events will be merged into a common platform under the new name “Vision”.

This is regrettable on the one hand, because Copenhagen’s fashion week is losing one of its most beautiful locations, the Øksnehallen, where CPH Vision used to be housed. On the other hand, the change is definitely understandable since CPH Vision, which was the centre of young Scandinavian design not too long ago, has lost some of its attraction. The mood was somewhat subdued. In the after show press release director Peter Selchau said: "Yes there is a lower traffic at the fairs compared to the 'old days', but we still experience short term increases. A great share of the international buyers attending the fairs represents high-end stores and chains as well as strong, independent retail stores. So even though the quantity is not at a satisfying level, based on previous experience, the quality of the visitors is high and orders are being signed."

There was no reason for lamenting at the oldest and largest of Copenhagen’s fashion shows, the CIFF. Nevertheless, a new wind is expected to blow at the Bella Centre where Kristian W. Andersen has taken up the reins for the fashion shows last September to pick up the momentum. ”The event has become dull in recent years”, he explains. An economic re-launch is necessary, because mainly solid clothing brands aimed at the distressed domestic market are represented at the CIFF. Therefore, a new, better structured concept will be introduced next summer, clearly organised with the division of the show into different theme-related areas. Copenhagen has definitely learned a few things from its major competitor in Berlin, the Bread & Butter show.

Moreover, the focus will be squarely on fashion again. This was clearly signified during the latest trend show of the fair which provided a glance of the projected future direction. For the first time, the new team of stylists also used parts of the exhibitors from the Gallery show which has a close organisational connection. As a result, fancy, innovative outfits were presented, including a jacket by Tabernacle Twins combined with pants by Lala Berlin. The show was unable to capitalise on the new stylish level even in view of the still rather unspectacular exhibitors, but Andersen’s radical re-conception will only be fully implemented in the summer.

Meanwhile, children’s fashion is starting to play a greater role for Copenhagen. This is not surprising, after all, Scandinavian kids wear is in equally high demand south of the Baltic Sea. The CIFF Kids, the appearance of which was also convincingly re-designed, has continued to grow and its competitor CPH Kids has evolved into a serious trade rival. Copenhagen continues to spearhead this segment – including when it comes to Berlin where any attempts to establish a relevant children’s fashion show have failed in the past.

From our correspondent

Foto: CIFF/Fotograf Claus Starup