Design houses recruit from within

A new pattern seems to be emerging amongst big fashion houses. After years of fashion merry-go-round behaviour where artistic, creative directors generally helmed brands for a few seasons, turned the label around, caused a buzz and thus bought

in big bucks, the ride is drawing to an end.

A number of major brands are now deciding that instead of taking a ‘big name’ designer from the outside to reinvent interest in the label, to recruit and promote talent from within. These younger, unknown , design names have the advantage of years growing up with the aesthetic, heritage and established codes of the brand and thus have an innate sense of its practices.

A current, obvious example is the much acclaimed new creative director of Alexander Mcqueen, Sarah Burton, who worked closely with the famed designer himself over 15 years and thus has been able to glide into the big shoes smoothly. She has taken her knowledge of his structuring and tailoring but added her own feminine bent to worldwide applaud – note her designs for the recent British Royal Wedding.

At Balmain, the intrigue as to who would succeed Christophe Decarnin, is now over. His successor? Olivier Rousteing, who has been working at the house since 2009 and is keeping quiet about his direction for the house and how he will move away from his predecessor’s glitzy stamp.

And it’s not just the design world. One of the biggest spots in fashion editorial, French Vogue editrix, has been bagged by previous deputy, Emmanuelle Alt, after the departure of coolhunter editor, Carine Roitfeld. A credible idea, recruiting from within allows a house overall continuity of aesthetic and direction. It’s with this in mind, there’s a big possibility the same thing could happen at Christian Dior after the firing of John Galliano.

Afterall according to insider reports, Mcqueen, just prior to his death, said about Burton, ‘she has the DNA.’