Two diverse paradigms currently seem to be working their way along the fashion landscape. S/S 11 saw a clash of ideals; a fast fashion, bold statement (Miuccia Prada) against a slow, back to roots take (Tom Ford). Miuccia embraced an idea of fashion
as fame with an American Idol theme and big bananas, bold coloured prints in a flashy, statement making collection, whilst Phoebe Philo at Celine returned to artisanal craftsmanship, graphic lines and neutral colours in a minimalist sleek bid to current economic woes.
Beyond design directions, brands went to battle on how they presented S/S 11 collections. So Tom Ford kept an all refreshing silence up to his intimate presentation for the launch of his much anticipated womens wear line. Only certain press were invited ‘by invitation only’ and no cameras or cell phones were allowed – ‘I had got so caught up in the commercial success of it all,’ remarks Ford. Hussein Chalayan agrees, ‘It’s become like being in a diamond plated hamster wheel, these days you have to go faster and faster and faster. At some stage ones got to fall.’ Whilst Burberry are keen to keep fashion democratic and are leading the way in our new ‘cult of immediacy,’ with shows live streamed and allowing the public to view a collection at the same time as an international editor.
Long line heritage and speedy descent also applies to fashion insiders, new designers at Valentino, Pier Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri are successfully bringing the house into a new generation through the long applied lessons they have learnt working under the master of the house himself for over a decade. However wunderkind designers such as Alexander Wang left Parsons to create his own line and Proenza Schouler sold their whole graduate collection to a Barneys head buyer.
And for every editor who has spent years paying their dues in the industry, now we see instant success stories and front row players in bloggers such as Tavi and Bryanboy.
It’s up to fashion insiders as to which lane they want to take.
