How long can Dior survive in flux?

It’s now been ten long months of intense speculation since the very public sacking of John Galliano as head designer at Dior, after his racist outburst. There have been endless suggestions of who would best fit the post, bring the house

into a new, less theatrical and modern day aesthetic, and succeed the legendary Galliano. But with still no decision made, and Christian Dior chief executive, Sidney Toledo long battling off rumours by saying they would wait and find the right fit, industry insiders are long pushing the question; how long can this fashion house thrive without a couturier at the helm?

However amongst the furore, surprisingly sales are surging - retail sales were up by 27 percent from the previous year – mainly due to standard lines such as Dior Red. However experts warn the house cannot carry on forever without artistic direction, especially when it comes to haute couture.

Serge Carreira, a luxury sector expert and teacher at Sciences Po university in Paris, says ‘You can manage without a designer for a season or two,’ the rewards of a considerable repositioning undertaken since the mid-2000s," building on the brand's identity and developing internationally, especially in China. "A dynamic that was set in motion well before Galliano's departure," he stresses.

However the break also gives the house some breathing space to think about direction with the media currently tipping Raf Simons’ currently head designer at Jil Sander to take up the coveted role, which would mean a complete u-turn to a minimalist design direction.

Image: Dior SS12