In talks with Steve Newbold; Pure London afficionado

‘I think the tipping point for Pure was, in 2002, we introduced a dedicated accessories section,’ comments Steve Newbold, managing director at Emap Connect. Having been part of the original team putting together Pure, the UK’s

leading fashion trade show, which this year marks its staggering 30th season anniversary, it’s an interesting and perhaps nostalgic time for Newbold.

‘It gave the show a whole new level; practically as a new gallery was created but on a larger scale, up to then, there was no dedicated accessory show and therefore the profile of Pure was raised and attracted growing international interest.’ So it would seem as this year’s 30th anniversary event (for the second time held in separate venues – Earls Court and Olympia) beginning of August, has a buzz surrounding it like never before. The investment into the event though has clearly worked, ‘it took 5 years to break even,’ from its actual beginnings in 1996, as it has today become a full blown fashion day out for the 15,000 odd visitors and 900 exhibitors expected next month, from a comparatively tiny 350 footfall count in 2004.

Today, the international element is integral with 45% of exhibitors coming from overseas; Emap bought out German trade show counterpart, CPD, in 2004 and this has brought with it ideas and contacts from across Scandivania and Germany. ‘It’s an expensive event to stage for sure,’ continues Newbold, but there isn’t any other trade show so edited as Pure and this I really believe stands it apart.’ It’s about ‘investing in the idea of an experience,’ including celebrity involvement (Zandra Rhodes on her career), trend presentations and evening parties. So with no faddy items or designers on display and a particular attention to how to present, visitors have come to see as an authoritative voice – ‘a must be there.’

‘If I had to conclude one main change in the habits of Pure visitors over the years, it’s simply that they spend more time at the event because through precision we’ve turned it into such a trusted source. Visitors and buyers will spend more money.’ Newbold is hasty to assure, however, that none of it has come without dedication and ‘plenty of leg work.’ Each year, the brains behind the event, aim for a 35-40% rise in new products and brands on show, and to add another layer of content or interest. Hence the continuous increase in footfall – February’s event saw a 25% growth compared to the previous year. Importantly by incorporating new sections – younger apparel, footwear, menswear – the event has stimulated its own cycle of growth, whereby ‘markets are opened up,’ and for instance clothing boutiques now also buy footwear.

So in Newbold’s positive eyes, our new ecommerce boom is just ‘another route into the market,’ which again Pure will aim to benefact. ‘We already have a lot of exhibitors selling to ASOS, for example, but smarter retailers are also buying for their own ecommerce and online sites too. So all round, it’s good for business.’ Appealingly, Pure is a transactional event so visitors are writing orders as they go.

But with so many different sectors now making up the Pure event, hasn’t this been difficult to straddle? ‘It could have been but I think because we have approached it with distinct sections – womens, footwear, accessories, apparel – the route is fairly straightforward and directional,’ he affirms. And what about catering to the variety of buyers who visit the event? Ultimately Pure is a ‘face to face’ way to engage with the market, so it’s become an ‘opportunity’ for department stores, boutiques and independents to sit on the same canvas. Whilst Newbold acknowledges the recent controversy around the fate of independents and ‘looks forward’ to Mary Portas’ review of the high street, he still is confident that independents can hold their own in the market, ‘they still have a strong, good set up in the UK. Unlike Hong Kong and China, we are not dominated by big towns and big department stores.’ ‘I think as our new digital days see fashion get ever faster and so many collections presented throughout the year, brands evermore need continued new relevance and that should benefit independents, where people need a reason to go back into the shop.’ He concludes that what people forget is what a ‘big market’ independents are – a £40bn sector with huge room for opportunity.

Whilst now in the run down to the event, Newbold is finalising floor plans (‘we do this down to the last week but I only have 10% left to place’), catwalk events and speakers, he also now will focus on marketing efforts. ‘Beyond pure promotion, we monitor how many are pre-registered to attend.’ The team behind Pure is well aware that ‘we have to keep pushing ourselves to raise the bar of the event each year.’ So feedback from buyers, brands, visitors and now also twitter and facebook comments are constantly being reviewed as Newbold looks to plans for the August 2012 event.

Pure is ultimately an ‘interactive’ event so the new social media craze is informing a strong part of the Pure customer base. Newbold assures that ‘just like everyone else in the industry,’ they are learning more about digital and social media activity and more importantly, ‘how the visitor reacts to it.’ So the future is for now about upping their digital marketing arm and evolving their website to be ‘not just a promotional market but more of a community.’

Clearly, Newbold is hugely positive about our British fashion industry and ever enthused by the challenges of developing Pure. Although he would like to see ‘more manufacturing in the UK,’ he is proud to be part of an industry with so much heritage and a braver, quirkier appeal that definitely appeals to overseas; ‘I really see opportunities in opening up outside the EU.’ And all these years down the line, Newbold wouldn’t change his position for anything, ‘it’s just so rewarding to see the way the huge investment put into Pure has paid off.’