Kilian Kerner: 'Coming to LFW was very important for us'

Since going public almost one year ago, Berlin fashion label Kilian Kerner has been considered one of the most business-minded designer enterprises in Germany. In the form of an integration scheme, Kilian Kerner has launched an international

expansion and currently views Great Britain as their key market, aside from Germany. In an exclusive interview with FashionUnited, head designer Kilian Kerner talks about his first show at London Fashion Week, the company’s expansion plans and his preference towards their location in Berlin.

Mister Kerner,

how did you find your first show at London Fashion Week to be?
"The premiere at London Fashion Week was incredibly exciting, a very new experience. For the first time, I have not presented my collection within the scope of a traditional catwalk show, but opted for a production show instead. The ambience was simply outstanding, the collection and the hall at the Waldorf Hilton were a perfect match. I am extremely satisfied. Going to London was very important for us. We are planning to return next season."

How important was the presence at LFW for your future expansion plans in Great Britain? After all, you have recently declared it to be the most important market after Germany.
"The recognition of the Kilian Kerner label is not at the same level in the UK as it is in Germany. Nevertheless, we are selling our merchandise in major department stores here. The presentation was the first important step towards creating a greater presence of the Kilian Kerner brand in the UK, towards generating media attention and towards attracting the attention of other buyers for the label."

What are your goals for the UK?
"We are planning to open two additional shop-in-shops at House of Fraser in the UK by early 2014. Moreover, we are discussing opportunities to expand with another major department store chain."

For months, your company has exclusively been reporting positive news. When will the success go to your head?
"I doubt this will ever happen, as it is not part of my attitude towards the company. Having your head in the clouds is simply the wrong way to deal with success. In fact, these events are giving me a sense of calm; even though the pressure is obviously on to continue producing Kilian Kerner’s success."

How important was it to go public in the summer of 2012? What has changed since then?
"Luckily, market transactions are supervised by others. I stay clear of it, sticking to the task sharing that is in place at Kilian Kerner."

Has the pressure to succeed increased since then and if so: how are you coping?
"The pressure to succeed obviously exists and there are more team players than ever looking at the brand and myself for success. Initially, this felt absurd, but I try to evolve my development and keep my discipline. I hope to continue developing at the level that I am working at and try to stay clear of the pressure on a daily basis."

To what degree are you still involved in the business and strategy of the company?
"Marketing is my passion. I know precisely where to take the brand and have my ideas on how to achieve it. In contrast, my involvement in finances is lower."

Is it really possible for a designer headquartered in Berlin to achieve sustainable international success? Or is it necessary to go to Paris or Milan?
"Of course, it is possible. Just because someone is working in Berlin does not mean that their presence is limited to this location. To be honest, the comparisons with Milan and Paris are getting on my nerves. Berlin has a lot of potential and people should start recognizing it."

Thanks to the license you granted Peter Jäckel, your branded cell phone accessories will soon be launched on the market. Is this expected to spark brand growth or might it rather water down the Kilian Kerner brand?
"This is the first product added to our range and I am convinced that it will boost the brand."

What are your plans for next year? Are there any other market entries on the horizon? Are there plans for future expansion of the product portfolio or additional licenses pending?
"We are obviously working on new market entries and on the continuous expansion of the Kilian Kerner brand. For the time being, our focus is on the European market, where we will attempt step-by-step growth. Discussions are likewise on-going with respect to the award of additional licenses."

Text: Reinhold Koehler
Editing: Vivian Hendriksz

Photo: Kilian Kerner/Marius Uhlig
Photo: Red Carpet Collection – S/S 2014