LFW: AW12 round up

One could argue that London Fashion Week has one of the best slots on the international show calendar. Firstly it follows New York, the most corporate and perhaps also lacklustre of all the fashion weeks. This translates that the fashion

elite are ready for a fix of all things new and cool by the time LFW comes around. Secondly, the London shows are not in direct competition with Paris, which is still the darling of the international catwalk schedules. Instead, LFW is followed by Milan, which is a key week for the Italian fashion houses, but with the exception of Prada and a few others perhaps, you always know what you're going to get.

London, thus, has become a serious contender on the international scene, with a better organised fashion week, a power house of a fashion council behind it and of course a return of big brands. Stella McCartney, McQ, Burberry and Paul Smith to name but a few. The big brands extend a relevance to a city known for its fledgling designers, because at the end of the day the creativity we see on the catwalk forms the heart of one of the country's most important industries. It may start as a simple sketch on a notepad, or a toile with a seamstress, but ultimately it embodies the entire fashion retail sector, comprising of design, manufacturing, fabric mills, production companies, illustrators; in short thousands of livelihoods and an economic importance that few industries can match.

This season the Autumn Winter 2012 catwalks showed the best London had to offer, from stalwart presentations by Burberry and McQ, to the most creative and expressive designers like Meadham Kirchoff, Central Saint Martins, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou to name but a few. A relatively new brand that caught our eye this season was Thomas Tait. As the youngest graduate from the Central Saint Martins MA course, Tait showed a remarkable collection of mostly outerwear, sharply cut and executed, it was relevant and to the point, clearly showing an established handwriting. Of the 24 looks there wasn't a single dress on the catwalk, a refreshing show when so much of the season has been centred around 'the dress.'

Innovation is an important focus for London as a fashion capital. You could not imagine the Meadham Kirchoff show, which was a bold disco extravaganza, taking place at the tents in New York. Neither would you find a designer like Mary Katzantrou in any other fashion capitals. A unique show came by way of accessories designer Anya Hindmarch, who instead of models and frocks, it showed her signature bags, in an exhibition designed by set designer Michael Howells, one of the production forces during the John Galliano years. The bags, which were boxed like toys, moved along a circular conveyor belt and shoes flipped up and down as they took the ride.

Innovation was also key with Burberry's big budget production. The quintessential British brand has been showing in London since 2009 and never disappoints with anything ordinary. For fall, the brand showed a glamorous procession of outerwear all of which appeared beneath a shower of (man-made) rain. Blanket coats, bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trench coat, which was this time came in cord and tweed, remain the core of its business to this day. The debut of McQ on the catwalk was another spectacular presentation. A catwalk strewn with fallen leaves, models came out in military great coats, Black Watch tartans, quilted velvet and tulle scattered with brightly coloured blooms.

The closing day of London Fashion Week is always dedicated to menswear where labels such as E. Tautz, J W Anderson, Gieves & Hawkes and Christopher Shannon showed their latest creations. The prominence of menswear in the last few seasons has seen a seismic shift in the talent coming out of London. Some of our favourite looks include James Long's chunky knitwear and quilted leather jackets, Lou Dalton's exquisite tailoring, or the simplicity of a baby blue woolen sweater over a rolled up pair of pale denim jeans. We already know what we'll be wearing next season.

Images: McQ, Lou Dalton, Meadham Kirchoff AW12