Spot lights are on Italian Mens Fashion, ever more technological thanks to the use of innovative fabrics while maintaining a distinct vintage flavour making it the talking point of the international press over the last few weeks. In fact the shirt Prince William will be wearing on 29 April for his wedding day will be made by Angelo Inglese from Puglia, and the cashmere pullover he wore when he got engaged was designed by Brunello Cucinelli. Furthermore, Trussardi, the brand Pitti Uomo has chosen to start the celebrations for its centenary was founded in Bergamo in 1911 and used to produce leather gloves for the British Royal Family.
a full recovery of the Italian Mens Fashion industry was still a long way off in 2010, companies have a few aces up their sleeves. According to data from Sistema moda Italia, most of the companies operating in the menswear sector believe the situation reached will remain stable, while 30% declare themselves to be optimistic. Orders for spring summer 2011 (October data), predict a change in pace for the national market (up by +2% approx.) and a dynamic increase of +10% for that abroad. 2010 should end with a fairly stable turnover compared to 2009, corresponding to just over 8 billion euros.
Fashion trends for next season signal the return of knitwear while colours on Milan’s catwalks and proposed by the 1,010 brands present at the 79th edition of Pitti Uomo, have natural tones: from camel to grey mélange, black for the long overcoats and formal wear from Emporio Armani, as well as blue together with khaki. Ermanno Scervino held a fashion show in via Manzoni one cold grey morning only possible in Milan in January, displayed impeccably dressed men in tailored double-breasted coats worn over the lightest of padded jackets.
Around the city and at fashion shows you can hear French spoken once again as well as English. The Chamber of Fashion predicts the arrival of 10 thousand operators from all over the world and a thousand representatives from both the national and international media (Pitti Uomo predicts an increase of +9% in overseas buyers, about 7,700 of the 23 thousand buyers in total). Encouraged by the New York Times who put Milan fifth out of 41 cities to visit in 2011, Milan also proposes the 150 brands present at White Homme, in the Tortona area over the following days. Sunday afternoon was fairly well attended. Aspesi’s stand was crowded with operators curious to see the iconic jackets and padded coats. Suits in black and white, instead, for the Frenchman Franck Boclet, at his Italian debut.
Top models such as Marpessa and Marisa Berenson, exceptional models for Alberta Ferretti, first on the catwalk at Pitti Uomo, knitwear and the entirely futuristic talent of Garet Pugh, guest female for Pitti W, stole the limelight and the web in Florence over the last few days. In fact it began with a pilot project that will become operative for the June edition of e-Pitti, the virtual fair. “The main objective is to enlarge, prolong and make the experience of this virtual fair even more effective“, said Francesco Bottigliero, managing director of FieraDigitale, “multiplying networking opportunities for each participant, reaching new clients and markets faster and facilitating research and selection for buyers”.
From our correspondent in Milan
Foto: Emporio Armani, AW 2011/12
Foto: Alberta Verretti opened Pitti Uomo