Milan Fashion Week: a mix of contrasts

Milan Fashion Week presented a rich mix of old and new, traditional and modern. Starting with the old, Designers Dolce&Gabbana took inspiration from Byzantium times, adorning the catwalk with a collection titled "Tailored Mosaic" that looked

as if the clothes were replicas of stained-glass windows from a 13th century Venetian church.

Fast forward to last century and we have Giorgio Armani's AW13 collection called "Garconne" which found inspiration from Comme des Garconne's 1980s archives. It was a romantic collection with models wearing dark wigs and floppy hats, something also seen at Marc Jacobs. Cropped velvet trousers were worn with short fitted jackets and came in prints, boucle and a rich deep navy. Suspenders, cut-out waistcoats and buttons added to the boyish charm of the collection.

Fendi, a house founded on fur, showed a sumptuous collection going back to its roots. Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld showed coats, jackets, skirts and even dresses in fur. They came in stripes, neons and as accents on bags, boots and sunglasses. Models were given mohicans, adding a punk element, to what was otherwise a very luxurious collection.

Prada showed one of the strongest collection of the week, suggesting 'real' clothes instead of a romanticised wardrobe. Executed with done/come un-done styling, the collection saw tweed and beaded chiffon dresses worn over plain cardigans, the garments left partly unbuttoned so they fell off the shoulders.

Missoni opted for pyjama dressing for Fall 2013. “Languid is the word,” said Angela Missoni of the collection. The collection saw billowing cashmere coats, alpaca knits, silk trousers and knitted jackets that made for a modern classic range of pieces from the famous knitwear company.

Jil Sander also had a strong show, and the looks she sent down the runway were not only minimal and controlled, but also modern and wearable. Sander, who's knowledge of cutting and fabric surpasses many of today's talents, knows how to engineer a luxurious coat, that the beauty lies in the smallest of details: in a fold, a drape or in the way the fabric behaves around the body. But the collection was not stark; soft lines, pleats, printed cashmeres and cropped trousers were beautifully presented, as were neat coats and cleverly cut sweaters.

Image: Jil Sander AW13