PFW : A week of paradoxes

Marked for ever by the tragic end to John Galliano’s career with Christian Dior, Fashion Week nevertheless succeeded in rising above the polemic of this first session of 2011. There’s no doubt, Planet Fashion has got the fidgets. Adjustments are

being made not only at Dior (see below), Hermès (with Christophe Lemaire replacing Jean Paul Gaultier) and Thierry Mugler but also – according to the rumours circulating – at both Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent, where there is talk of the possible departure of their artistic directors.

For the coming winter, lively shades will be in: bottle green, Indian pink and tobacco as well as neutral colours like dove grey, beige and off-white. The two-material look is becoming established: the mix of ultrafine leather/wool, silk, touches of fox or shaved fur (kid, rabbit, mink) is everywhere. From a purely commercial point of view, by multiplying the materials used in an article of clothing, designers are responding to the different tastes of their customers, which allows them to emerge in better shape.

Without giving up its immutable chic, Paris is letting go of its intellectualism and is adapting to the liberated design of stylists from abroad who know how to perform osmosis with inexhaustible Parisian savoir faire. For his début with Thierry Mugler last Wednesday, Nicola Formichetti put on a fashion parade. In 2009, Lady GaGa fell in love with the designs of this Italo-Japanese designer who was little known by the general public. As a virgin bride, this star dominates the décor and eclipses the articles in the collection that revives Mugler’s DNA. This season has seen the introduction into the official calendar of Corrado de Biase and Hakaan Yildirim, the prizewinner of ANDAM 2010 and a regular on the London podiums. The supporters of this Turkish designer, Karolina Kurkova, Maria Carla Boscono and Natalia Vodianova, made up a dream team for his fashion parade.

The success of the Dutch couturier Iris Van Herpen during Haute Couture week in January has given ideas to more than one of her compatriots... Josephus Thimister has unveiled a very promising first prêt-à-porter collection in Paris, just like the young stylist Steffie Christiaens who was inspired by fire and the forces of nature for her first show in the capital, at the Paris Mint, the latest cultural venue to date to lend its halls to the designers of Paris Fashion Week.

Albeit in an atmosphere of “musical chairs” and primary innovation among designers (and here one might mention in particular the latest collections by Manish Arora, Haider Ackermann and Viktor & Rolf), a search for convenience is making itself felt in the choice of the fashion show venues. No more remote locations à la Galliano. No more need for GPS, the fashion itinerary is staying close to home or nearly so... A sort of headquarters has formed around three main axes: Opéra - Rivoli - Alma Marceau / Champs Elysées, together with the little galleries of the Left Bank and Le Marais. A pavilion erected in Place de la Concorde has replaced last season's one at Pont Alexandre III. Sonia Rykiel, Vivienne Westwood, Barbara Bui and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac have held shows here.

Lutz, Amaya Arzuaga and Damir Doma have taken over one of the wings of the Grand Palais, Chanel’s favourite location, one of those rare buildings that can provide a big monumental hall. Further east, Halle Freyssinet and the Docks en Seine and Cité de la Mode are no longer flavour of the month. Lastly, on the other side of the city, the stark décor of the Palais de Tokyo has managed to entice the Americans Zac Posen and Rick Owens and also Maison Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Vanessa Bruno, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Haider Ackermann, mentioned as a future successor to Galliano at Dior. In summary, a fashion week in the throes of major change, full of paradoxes, which is opening up and consolidating at the same time.

From our correspondent in Paris

Photo 1 and 3: Celine
Photo 2: Steffie Christiaens