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Pitti stands up well but Italian fashion grows only with exports

By FashionUnited

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Fashion

The visitors to Pitti Uomo are unmistakable. You easily can spot them, even on the busy streets of Florence, practically as soon as they get off the train from Milan, the capital of Italian fashion, which will compete for three days for the title with Florence. “We have no intention,” was the

unambiguous message from the Pitti Immagine official press office in Florence, “of moving the show to Milan for the Expo in June 2015” as was previously speculated by a number of insiders over the past few days.


Turning to the trends seen at the 85th edition of the event, suits with a sartorial cut with eccentric, colourful scarves or even a totally sporty look but with sneakers in gold, camouflage colours or zebra stripes, often the product

of a limited edition, came out on top. Amongst the triumphant strength of well-trimmed beards, rucksacks and, compared with past editions, the suits rediscovered elegance. So much, that Brunello Cucinelli, the king of Italian cashmere, enthused that Italian style had triumphed yet again.

Lower growth than expected for Italian men’s fashion, including in the developing economies

But, if one goes behind the scenes, how are things with the Italian fashion sector? The figures seem to speak for themselves: lower growth than expected, including in the “developing economies” for Italian men’s fashion, along with clothing and knitted outerwear, shirts, ties and leather clothing. According to the estimates released by Smi, the sector should to report a positive result for 2013, but with levels of turnover scarcely higher than those achieved in 2012. In fact, sales should see continuous growth of 1 percent, giving a little over 8.6 billion.


The results have once more been adversely affected by the fall in domestic demand, a factor which, especially these days, has obliged labels like Cesare Paciotti to apply for a settlement with its creditors. In short, the main boost to the Italian men’s fashion industry in 2013 was once more attributable to the external market, in particular outside Europe, albeit at a slower rate than in the same period in 2012. For the twelve months, growth in total foreign sales is predicted to be equivalent to 3.7 percent, or 5.2 billion Euros.
 

The interest of foreign buyers, in particular from Japan, Germany, Great Britain, Russia, France, Spain and Turkey, is demonstrated by the 21 thousand buyers present at Fiera. After a slightly slow start, due to the early opening date of 7 January, the numbers picked up, in comparison to January 2012.
 

“Amongst the exhibitors at the show and those involved in the special events,” said Raffaello Napoleone, the Deputy Administrator of Pitti Immagine, “we have noted an intention to grow, to consolidate existing markets and to win the new and emerging ones present here with so many buyers.”

Diesel Black Gold, a range designed by Andreas Melbostad, was the catalyst for the men’s show. It’s collection drew its inspiration from the military and then added in a edge of rock style. This label’s range alternates camouflage items with leather jackets. Rock is in Diesel’s DNA as well as being the theme that the organizers of Pitti Uomo have selected for this edition of the show.

Pitti