Pure London Olympia visit

So the first Pure event of 2011 is upon us. The terrific build up from press and promotional material to the array of designers; from young and talented, seeking new recognition, to more established brands looking for growing exposure,

the new dual spaced show had a lot to live up to. FashionUnited went along to the Olympia exhibition venue, intrigued by what to would find and how some of the designers and agents themselves felt about the opportunities Pure gives them.

Sally Allen-Gerard, founder of niche jeans brand, Wizard Jeans, a selection of denim fitted with special bonding to give the perfect slimming effect, comes back to Pure, for the second year consecutively, mainly as a ‘way to make contacts and therefore increase distribution.’ It’s more about spreading word and trying to circulate with new people than make big sales and so she is happy positioned in amongst knitwear or eveningwear exhibitors. In a market, she feels has become too saturated, Wizard Jeans intentionally start at prices under £100 and she has no intention to move beyond denim wear or to become ‘too blanket.’

Pierre Cartet, head agent for Aventures des Toiles, a quirky, French prêt a porter brand which draws inspiration from French abstract art, previously showed at Moda but moved to Pure as he ‘wanted to get into an environment, which has higher fashion content and brands.’ The UK market only makes up 15% of their whole but is considered an interesting one as it is very open to labels coming from the continent. Why? ‘French brands are enjoying attention from buyers. The quirky Parisian look is an idea women of any age are able to embrace.’ Ideally Cartet would like to pick up a dozen new stockists and with not a quiet moment so far, he thinks it’s more than achievable. Shonel Smyth, UK sales manager for Australian brand, Emu, sees the UK market as ‘very competitive one.’ However she also sees it as one that thrives on something niche and original – which of course benefits a one-of-its-kind company like Emu that still only uses Australian materials. Previously purely a footwear specialist, Emu has turned to clothing with its distinct shearling and merino outback-inspired pieces. For them, Pure is mainly about growing awareness of the brand beyond just its accessories and footwear. For Smyth, Pure has had its highlight already - a visit from a Selfridges buyer!

It is Fenn Wright’s first year back to Pure after a seven year absence. The reason? The new direction the brand is taking this season; a more fashion focused take. ‘Gone is the old devore,’ laughs off Harvey, ‘we came back this year thinking that PURE would be a great platform for our new directional designs.’ These few days, Fenn Wright will be looking for a quarter of sales on existing and new business. I asked Harvey what she thinks the reason for Pure’s lasting success is; ‘It’s the only trade show of its kind in London and its accessible. London Fashion Week is too exclusive.’

Next stop – a shuttle to Earls Court to catch a glimpse of Pure Spirit and the new Stitch event - and a catch up with some of Pure’s most dedicated buyers.

Photos: Pure and Wizard Jeans