Talking menswear with Tommy Nutter exhibit curator
By FashionUnited
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FashionUnited: Why do you think the time was right to launch this Tommy Nutter exhibition?
Denis Nothdruft: Menswear is having a renaissance at the moment. And remarkably the Tommy Nutter clothes still look relevant and fresh today.
FU: Why do you think there has been a renewed interest recently in Savile Row and the heritage of menswear tailoring?
DN: I feel that there is a real reaction to mass production and it has been underway for a while now. There is the move to hand crafts and DIY fashion on one side; the other side is a resurgence of traditional crafts like bespoke tailoring.
FU: And a series of menswear exhibits – Yohji Yamamoto, Dandy, The Peacock Male etc...?
DN:Men’s fashion comes and goes, but we seem to be moving into a period where men’s fashions are shifting and we are focusing on the masculine image.
FU: What was the main message you were looking to convey when curating the exhibit?
DN:We felt that it was important to show that the advent of Tommy Nutter prestaged a change in the way traditional tailoring was sold/displayed/consumed. He articulated bespoke tailoring to a newer, younger audience - as the first tailor to successfully combine Savile Row heritage with the Swinging Sixties cutting edge rebellion.
FU: There is even a tailor working in the space at intervals during the exhibit, what do you think is the most forgotten aspect of this form of design?
DN: Traditional craft - it is integral to the tailoring process.
FU: What are some of the signature pieces featured?
DN: The classic Nutter blazer in velvet with satin trim and the plaid suits with contrast pockets and trim. The his and hers cream suits are also stand out features. And four of Mick Jagger's suits – boyish-sized save for the shoulders – in shades of green and lemon as well as Elton John's stadium-ready two-tone dinner jackets are celebrity favourites.
FU: What were some of the most challenging aspects to curating this exhibit?
DN: Mounting the suits was a challenge as the shapes of clothes were very slim then!
Photos: Glass magazine
Denis Nothdruft
Fashion and Textile Museum
fashion and textiles museum
FTM
menswear exhibits
Tommy Nutter
V&A