Affordable luxury, rebranding and a ‘good playlist’: how Emerson Renaldi wants to attract new and old customers

Niloy Rahman is store director at luxury fashion retailer Emerson Renaldi. He returned to the company run by the Pfeiff family six months ago to become the first external store director. He is also responsible for menswear purchasing together with Jacopo De Manzolini, the husband of owner Olivia Pfeiff. Pfeiff, who is the second generation to run the family business, is responsible for purchasing womenswear.

Speaking to FashionUnited, Rahman revealed how the rebranding of the Nuremberg fashion retailer, which was founded in 1979, has been received by regular and new customers, which trends define menswear and which trendy brands are new additions to Emerson Renaldi's offering.

You've been back at Emerson Renaldi for about six months now. How has the return been?

Returning felt good because I had already worked at Emerson Renaldi for seven years and therefore already felt connected to the company. But Emerson Renaldi has also developed substantially in recent years, established new structures and the team too has grown. We have taken a big step forward, particularly in terms of multi-channel digitalisation.

We are a very personal and family-run store, which is why we maintain a close relationship with our regular customers in particular. We are an event-oriented store and this is an extremely important factor in brick-and-mortar retail in order to entice our customers on site, because the range and options are now so large that you have to go the extra 20 per cent to retain customers. We also have great suppliers who are part of our regular events and want to explore new ways of brick-and-mortar retail and collaborating with us.

What do you offer your customers at these events?

This Christmas we had our 'Christmas Saturdays', where we had a specially made glow bar, among other things. But we also try to strengthen our visibility in our home city with other events and create great moments for our customers. For example, Dolce & Gabbana had its first German pop-up in our space. Of course, we are also organising these types of events and moments in 2024.

We are also active through our Instagram account with live videos every Friday. I personally present my 'essentials' every week to make the menswear section even more approachable and tangible. Our aim is also to create a personal connection with our customers in the physical and online stores.

You are the first external store director to join the Pfeiff family business. How is the collaboration going?

Because I had already worked for the company before and we already had a very close and good relationship, it's very familiar. I feel very comfortable and am very grateful for the trust they have placed in me. It's going in the right direction.

Of course, it is also a learning experience for us, because we are reorganising the company structure - a challenge for a family business. In the long term, we are striving for a well thought-out and solid company organisation that does not compromise the family vibe.

You haven't left Nuremberg in all this time. What is so valuable about the location?

Nuremberg has great potential in terms of fashion and frequency, a huge commuter belt with important company headquarters - such as Adidas, Puma, Schaeffler and Siemens - and we also have very successful regional medium-sized companies, which we naturally want to tap into..

How is the company rebranding, which was fuelled by your appointment, progressing?

In 2023, we invested a lot in remodelling and rebranding, which is reflected both externally and internally. In addition to factors such as company positioning, image and addressing digital target groups by creating a younger look, for me as a store manager, the bricks-and-mortar shop is of course particularly relevant and how the remodelling affects it.

It was a change for the regular customers in particular, but of course also for us personally that the branding has changed with a new logo, bags and interior. Anyone who visits us now and has been here before will not recognise the store - international flair in the middle of Nuremberg. It's the 'place to be' for our customers. They really appreciate the fact that we have created such a feel-good place for them and simply come by for a chat, a drink or an espresso.

For those who haven't seen the store before: what has changed exactly?

We have relaunched the entire store branding. The interior is more minimalist, industrial, timeless and very modern. We have completely revamped everything from the exterior branding of the store to the bags and the playlist that plays in the shop. This already creates that first impression with customers. They come in and listen to cool music - these are the little things that we want to perfect. The role of host is a very important factor for me personally. We also want to redefine this and take it to another level.

We have not only invested in our store, but also in new office space. Our efforts have even been recognised with a design award for this. It's not just an investment for our customers, but also for our employees, who now have excellent working conditions.

Do you also want to reach a new, younger target group with the reorganisation? If so, how do you intend to retain your regular customers and attract new ones?

It's definitely a balancing act. Our loyal regular customers will remain loyal, as we endeavour to maintain this level of care on a daily basis. But there is clearly a target group that we don't want to miss out on and would like to attract.

Of course, we also try to offer this affordable luxury in the form of niche products and accessories with brands. We simply want every customer who comes into our shop to be able to buy something. Of course, we are a luxurious establishment, but we still want to do away with this barrier and have some really cool, modern people in our store who just want to pick up a candle or a book. We want them to experience the good atmosphere in the shop and then maybe the next time they won't just purchase a candle.

Do young talents also make an appearance in your product range?

Of course, we always try to present the best of the best on the sales floor. We are a company that likes to try and test. Nevertheless, we don't have the capacity to do as much testing as the other large department stores.

With Gucci - back in the product range this season - as well as Prada and Miu Miu from autumn/winter 2023/2024, it's more the big budget brands that go the extra mile with such a test. That's where our absolute focus lies.

Which other brands would you say are doing well at the moment?

Personally, I'm also a fan of affordable luxury. This includes brands such as Jacquemus, Acne, Anine Bing and Diesel, which we have been selling well and for which demand is very high. The customers who are interested in these brands are a very fashion-conscious target group who are well informed. I have had some great conversations in the store and met some cool people as a result.

Which other brand brings you joy?

I have a lot of affection for CP Company. The brand really shows up on social media every day and has become my secret favourite for the coming winter. Very traditional and timeless with great signature pieces.

Of course, this also goes well with the gorpcore trend. What other trends do you see in menswear?

It's going more in the direction of 'back to basic'. The topic of knitwear is becoming more relevant from season to season, across all target groups - and again for FW24. The fashion-conscious man wants to be more dressed up. He needs a product that he can wear during the day, but can also wear to a dinner - it's about a mixture of high quality and uncomplicated.

The customer also wants to move in a more classic direction while still feeling comfortable. Especially since comfort was so important during the pandemic. Now there is a growing demand for loafers or cool suit trousers. It's becoming more formal but retaining that fashion touch, where it's not just a three-piece suit but smart trousers with a knitted top.

Which pieces would you say are currently doing well?

Performance knitwear is doing really well. Besides that, of course, the Gucci pieces right now. As soon as they arrive, they're already sold. As we also send pictures to our customers, some products don't even make it onto the shop floor.

Gucci is simply the most commercial luxury brand, and one on which customers are prepared to spend more money. You rarely have to argue and explain the price - as you would with a knitwear piece from another high-end niche brand.

So is it still important for your customers to have a recognisable brand identity, as was the case with the logomania trend?

Logomania is on the decline, but we are still selling all-over prints with Gucci and Balenciaga logos again. The fact that tourists, trade fair visitors and our local customers come to us makes it difficult for us to define such trends. We also like to cater to the individual needs of our customers thanks to our very diverse range.

Overall, customers seem to be buying more sustainably and no longer focusing on the short term. For a long time, they needed a new T-shirt for going out every weekend. Now they think about whether it's something they can wear again another day or pass on.

How are you starting the new menswear ordering season?

We do a lot digitally, which is why we don't have to travel so much at the beginning of the year. The digital appointments also save us a lot of expenses. As we have a global online shop, many trade fair visitors and tourists here on site, but still want to pick up our regular customers, it's always a positive strategic challenge for us.

People often sit in the showroom and immediately think of some of our regular customers. That's completely normal and is reflected in the layout of our organisation.

What challenges do you currently face?

I tend to start from the current situation and look towards the future. The current situation and what is happening in the world is not easy. The issue of war also continues to concern us, the industry and consumers. People don't necessarily prioritise going into the city and having a nice shopping day. Of course, this is a chain reaction for every industry. I just hope that things go in the right direction in the new year, that we can focus on our day-to-day business again and no longer have to look so much at what's happening on the left and right. I just hope that everything will become more positive.

Nevertheless, the price issue with the high production costs is still very much on the agenda. Communicating these changes to customers is a challenge and is not something everyone understands.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit from German into English: Veerle Versteeg.