Cotton vs. polyester - why the recent cotton ban rumour managed to create such ripples

The article that most likely started the rumour about a potential cotton ban in Europe by 2030 was a simple one - just a few short paragraphs, focusing on cotton as an “environmental problem”, backed by dubious figures and conjuring up an alleged cotton ban riding on actual legislation (CSRD and CSDDD). Looking at the author - a fashion company using a few alternative materials and much of recycled polyester - the case should have been closed and the article dismissed as promotional content.

But it wasn’t. Figures were taken as facts and the potential cotton ban as a certainty. Quickly, the industry divided itself into two camps - those for cotton and those against it (not unlike the pro- and anti-vaccinations ‘wars’ we saw just a few years ago).

What divides the industry?

How could that happen? The strong reaction shows that the industry is torn, confused maybe, as to the way forward. Clothing needs to be sustainable, circular even, and taking the whole lifecycle of a garment into account. And that starts from its material origins - the oil or cotton fields in today’s scenario. While the cotton lobby points to the many advantages of the natural material, the polyester lobby does the same with the petroleum-based material and its recycling potential.

But pitting one against the other is missing the point - we live in times of technological advancement, where fibres can be made out of almost anything - banana leaves, pineapple leaves, cactus, coffee grounds, apple cores, lotus, kapok, seaweed; heck, even thin air. Leaving each fibre and resulting yarn and fabric with unique qualities like resistance to mould and mildew, oil absorbance, sound absorbance, UV resistance and being able to self-heal.

Hence it is not about one material trumping the other but making the best of the amazing material choices at our disposal (some of which may yet be at their infant stage) and using their unique superpowers - some of which may unfold themselves in combination with other materials.

For example, as someone living in a tropical climate with temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius year-round, I dare polyester lovers to spend even one full day in polyester clothes under those conditions - sweating, sweat stains, odour and a general uncomfortable feeling would be the unpleasant consequences. Cotton (and other natural fibres) that are sweat-absorbent, anti-bacterial and odour-resistant feel much better in this kind of weather.

Using material uniqueness is key

Similarly, someone who is exposed to much rain year-round (or monsoon season) would not pick cotton clothing but may opt for polyester or other fabrics that are moisture-resistant and quick drying. Same with hospital garb - doctors and nurses need clothes that are stain- and chemical-resistant. However, the best medical wear in winters and dry weather may be a blend of cotton and polyester.

We can see where this is going - the idea is not to pit one material against another or to ban certain choices but to use the best possible option depending on the intended use, climate and other circumstances. Need of the hour is the keyword - or to paraphrase a popular saying: If life gives you mountains of old clothes, make new clothes out of them. Only then can we come up with garments that offer the best for people, planet and progress.