Founders of Japanese brand Bibiy talk UK debut

Japanese brands have been gaining increased popularity among Western consumers over recent years for their often unique design values that particularly resonate with younger shoppers on the lookout for a fresh take on wardrobe staples. It is exactly this that Bibiy is hoping to lean on. The label has taken its first major step into the European market through a UK launch, with which it hopes to speak to an appreciation of tradition displayed by local consumers.

At its mid-level price point, for which dresses sit in the 179 to 275 pound price range, Bibiy’s target market is a one of fashion-forward clients, to whom the brand affirms an intention to create pieces that “transcend gender, age and nationality”. In its domestic market, Bibiy typically draws in a digitally-savvy crowd, evident in the large social media following it has amassed since its launch in 2019. Next to Instagram, the brand has retained a presence through its e-commerce business, and has also more recently dabbled in local pop-ups within popular department stores.

Its approach to the UK, however, has so far involved a showroom presence and the launch of a new Ivy League-inspired collection. With this, Bibiy has merged its take on contemporary Japanese fashion – typically translating into compelling, and sometimes avant-garde, silhouettes – with that of a preppy flair, modernising familiar pieces to reflect a design mindset synonymous with the brand. It thus presents a more pared back offering to Bibiy’s usually eclectic aesthetic for this new audience, while still sitting alongside more signature collections.

On the back of Bibiy’s London showroom appearance to celebrate its regional launch, and to get a feel of how the Japanese label is planning to cater to this new UK audience, FashionUnited spoke to founder Yuyuko Komatsu and co-founder Fuma Masuda.

How does the Bibiy brand fit into the UK market and with British consumers? Why start here?

Komatsu: By choosing London for its international debut, Bibiy leverages the city's status as a fashion hub, its embrace of individuality, and the city’s taste for traditional aesthetics and nostalgia. The brand's playful reimagining of preppy style, infused with Japanese aesthetics, fits seamlessly into the UK market, making it an exciting new addition for British consumers looking for something fresh yet familiar. London offers Bibiy the perfect platform for introducing its bold, joyful designs to the world, starting with a market that appreciates fashion that is both stylish and fun.

What challenges have you had to overcome in order to enter this new market, particularly as a Japanese brand?

Masuda: Bibiy faces the typical challenges of entering a new market – cultural adaptation, building brand awareness, and logistical hurdles – while also needing to navigate the specific dynamics of the UK fashion industry. Striking a balance between Japan’s avant-garde aesthetic and the UK’s appreciation for tradition and understatement is crucial. The brand needs to build awareness in a highly competitive market, where it competes with both established local and global fashion names.

Bibiy must also overcome potential misconceptions about Japanese fashion, ensuring that it’s seen as accessible and not solely avant-garde. By leveraging London’s diverse, experimental fashion scene and engaging with influencers and social media, Bibiy appeals to women who enjoy fashion. Tailoring its offerings to local preferences and climates, while communicating its unique twist on preppy style, will help the brand establish itself in the UK market.

How has Bibiy funded its expansion into the UK market? Have you received investment or does this growth come as part of an uptick in financial performance?

Masuda: Our expansion into the UK market has been driven by the brand’s strong performance and growth in Japan and the surrounding region. Our success in the domestic market has provided the financial foundation to support this strategic international move.

While we have not sought external investment specifically for this expansion, our steady financial performance and established presence in Japan have enabled us to confidently enter the global stage, starting with the UK. This step is part of our broader vision to bring Bibiy’s unique fashion identity to a wider, international audience.

As a Japanese brand now functioning in the UK market, how are you aiming to balance the business operations and the design aesthetic for both regions?

Komatsu: We are focused on maintaining Bibiy’s core design identity while adapting to local tastes. Our goal is to balance the playful, bold aesthetic that defines us with an understanding of British preferences, ensuring our collections resonate in both markets. From a business perspective, we’re tailoring our approach by aligning product offerings with seasonal needs, sizing standards, and cultural nuances in the UK, while continuing to embrace the unique, joyful spirit that drives our brand in Japan.

Masuda: Operationally, we are streamlining logistics, distribution, and marketing to cater effectively to both regions, with a particular focus on engaging British consumers through localised campaigns, influencer collaborations, and retail partnerships. This dual focus allows us to expand internationally without compromising the authenticity and innovation that have made us successful in Japan.

Are there any other European markets you have your eye on? What is next for the brand over here?

Masuda: Our London launch coincides with the introduction of international shipping from our online store, allowing us to reach customers worldwide. While we're now globally accessible online, Europe remains a key area of interest for us, with potential future expansion into markets like Milan and Copenhagen, given their fashion-forward cultures.

We have historically collaborated with American influencers, and the preppy, collegiate-inspired theme of our latest collection naturally aligns with the US market, hinting at possible growth there in the future. However, at this stage, we're focusing on solidifying our UK presence before making any concrete plans for further physical expansion.