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Mourning for Esprit: Voices from the Internet

By Weixin Zha

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Business

Esprit shop Credits: FashionUnited

The people behind Esprit have had a difficult week. The clothing group announced last week that it would only focus on the licensing business. Operational activities such as sales and production are to be completely handed over to a licensing partner. The approximately 1,300 employees still in Germany are now worried about their jobs because potential investors could significantly reduce activities in Germany. The Dutch subsidiary Esprit BV is to cease operations.

Meanwhile, fashion professionals are speaking out on Linkedin, discussing the reasons behind Esprit's difficulties, but there are also many people reminiscing about the brand.

Management failure

Esprit has been struggling more and more in recent years. Following bankruptcy in 2020, the fashion company was gradually taken over by a new major shareholder, Karin Lo. The new owner announced big plans with a relaunch, expansion plans and the opening of a creative headquarters in New York. But these did not come to fruition.

"That's how quickly it ends when struggling brands end up in the hands of an owner with an unrealistic vision and a fantasy market approach that burns the remaining money like there's no tomorrow. Now there's no tomorrow! Farewell Esprit! You'll never be the same again," writes former Esprit manager Thomas Fröhlich in a post on Linkedin. Many contacts and former colleagues quickly agreed with the former Head of Wholesale Europe & Americas.

Others also see poor management decisions as the reason for the brand's decline over the past few years.

"I find this very sad. I remember sales of over 1 billion in women's clothing. (...) Poor leadership and strategic decisions led to the demise of the brand, while its competitors, who were considered less strong, survived and happily gained market share because they really understood the target customer," writes Rosey Cortazzi, who currently manages womenswear labels for British retailer Marks & Spencer.

Others believe that the management has recently lacked an understanding of the main market in Europe.

"Total failure of management in recent years and, unfortunately, it hasn't gotten any better. All of this would have been possible with common sense," says Sabine Tramontana. According to her Linkedin profile, the head of sourcing and design at the CBR Fashion Group worked as head of buying at Esprit until 2010. "But if you lack all knowledge and understanding of the German/European market, you can't save it even with the strongest product team and loyal long-standing employees. I personally feel very sorry for everyone who fought so hard."

Good times at Esprit

Many of the contributions also convey a sense of sadness; some long-standing employees and former employees mourn the loss of what was once a good working environment.

"My heart has been crying since we were informed yesterday about the situation and the consequences that we and the incredible, fantastic Esprit brand are now facing. I certainly speak for the majority of my highly valued and beloved colleagues when I say: this was one... no, the darkest moment of my working life," writes Ralf Wanning, Key Account Manager Lifestyle, in a post on Linkedin.

Many comments from fashion professionals who have worked at Esprit for more than a decade particularly praise the team spirit and the good colleagues.

"I was proud to work for this great brand for 11 years. I will forever miss this great corporate identity, very motivated employees and great colleagues. Not to forget the great E-Lounge!" writes former Esprit clothing technician Miriam Wegmann. "It was so sad to see that the company had destroyed the internal spirit within just a few years. It was obvious that the new owner was burning money with expensive offices and duplicate positions."

"From the top to the bottom in 17 years. It was great to experience the years of success at Esprit. The teams had an incredible flow back then," says Marjo Hartikainen. The consultant for sustainable textiles looks back on a 15-year stint at Esprit. "It's sad to see the company disappear. But it's a real learning experience for everyone, knowing what you can do wrong."

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, translated and edited to English.

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