Textile Exchange: Fashion still relying on virgin, fossil-based synthetic fibres

Data from non-profit Textile Exchange’s latest Materials Market Report shows that the market share of virgin, fossil-based synthetics continued to increase in 2023, while that of cotton and recycled fibres declined. These findings correspond to those of a survey among 50 major fashion brands by NGO Changing Markets Foundation: The brands admitted to using more rather than less synthetic materials contrary to their promises.

According to the latest Materials Market Report, global fibre production for categories such as apparel, home textiles, footwear and others reached an all-time high of 124 million tonnes in 2023, which is an increase of 7 percent compared to 116 million tonnes in 2022. Despite industry efforts in the last decade and compared to 2000, fibre production has more than doubled and is expected to rise to 160 million tonnes in 2030 should the current trend continue.

"We hope this data serves as a clear call to action for the industry, highlighting both the successes and the critical areas where we must intensify our focus to meet climate targets,” comments Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange, in a press release.

Global fibre production by material

How do these 124 million tonnes break down by material? Two thirds (67 percent) or almost 84 tonnes is taken up by synthetic fibres; one fourth (25 percent) or 31,4 million tonnes by plant fibres (with cotton making up the bulk or 24,7 million tonnes); manmade cellulosic fibres account for 6 percent with almost 8 million tonnes and finally animal fibres with 1 percent or 1,3 million tonnes.

If one looks at global fibre production from 1975 to today, the year 2000 marks the turning point: While before, cotton was the most produced fibre, polyester drew even that year, surpassing cotton by far in the following decades: while its production tripled, cotton and other natural fibres stayed the same, with that of polyamide and other synthetics like polypropylene, acrylics and elastane doubling.

Synthetics - especially polyester - continue to dominate

The production of virgin, fossil-based synthetic fibres increased by almost 12 percent from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. With 57 percent of total fibre production, polyester remains the most produced fibre globally, followed by polyamide (nylon).

Although recycled polyester fibre production slightly increased in 2023, the overall market share of recycled polyester decreased slightly (from 13.6 percent to 12.5 percent). For polyamide, recycled fibres constituted only 2 percent of the total market share.

“These trends are attributed to the lower prices and continued production of virgin synthetics, as well as current limitations in recycling technologies. Less than 1 percent of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles,” states the report.

This continued reliance on new virgin fossil-based synthetic materials undermines the industry’s commitments to its climate goals. Reaching them is made harder by current limitations of textile-to-textile recycling and a lack of innovative solutions, with most recycled polyester still coming from PET bottles.

“Unlocking textile-to-textile recycling pathways will be essential to reducing reliance on virgin synthetics. Equally important is continuing to support those on the ground who are driving the transition from conventional systems to preferred materials. It is more urgent than ever to support those who have already invested in preferred systems, while also enabling the transition away from conventional at scale,” states Bergkamp.

Sustainable cotton makes up almost one third of all cotton produced

Though total global cotton volumes fell slightly from 25.1 million tonnes in 2022 to 24.4 million tonnes in 2023, the share of cotton produced under sustainability programs remained stable at 29 percent or almost one third of all cotton produced.

While there is a diversity of other plant-based fibres such as jute, coir, flax, hemp, sisal, abaca, kapok, ramie, and agave that together amounted to 6,7 million tonnes in 2023, they make up only 5.4 percent of global fibre production. However, the Discover Natural Fibres Initiative estimates that more than eight million households are involved in their production.

Manmade cellulosic fibre production increases

The overall production of manmade cellulosic fibres (MMCF) increased by almost 7 percent from 7.4 million tonnes in 2022 to 7.9 million tonnes in 2023, representing 6 percent of the global fibre market.

MMCFs include materials such as viscose (rayon), acetate, lyocell, modal and cupro.

Use of certified animal fibres increases

There was an increase for wool produced under standards such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, SustainaWool (Green and Gold), Sustainable Cape Wool Standard (SCWS) and Climate Beneficial programs from 4.2 percent in 2022 to 4.8 percent in 2023. Recycled wool continues to account for around 6 percent of the global wool market.

Certified mohair and cashmere fibre experienced notable growth with market shares of both reaching almost half (47 percent).

Details about other animal fibres such as alpaca wool, silk, yak, camel hair, llama, vicuña and guanaco and angora wool can also be found in the report, which can be downloaded on the Textile Exchange website.