Exhibition shows creativity and craftsmanship of Moroccan fashion designers

"We do not want to reinforce stereotypes," says Ninke Bloemberg from the curatorial team of the exhibition 'MOḌA - Moroccan Fashion Statements'. For those looking to explore new facets of Muslim fashion and willing to broaden their perspective, the exhibition at the Centraal Museum in Utrecht, the Netherlands, is not to be missed. This exhibition, which provides a platform for designers from the Moroccan diaspora, is truly a must-see.

Three years of preparation went into the display, which opened on October 3. FashionUnited was among the first to be guided through the museum by fashion curator Ninke Bloemberg and co-curator Zineb Seghrouchni, founder of DAR Agency. "This is not a retrospective; we do not claim to be exhaustive," Bloemberg states before we enter the exhibition. The narrative of these designers is ever-evolving, and the museum's primary goal is to spark conversations.

"When we started this exhibition, we also didn't know in what society it would land," adds Bart Rutten, the artistic director of the Centraal Museum, referencing the current political climate where the negative portrayal of minorities is part of some politicians' agendas.

Museum honours the artistry of Moroccan designers

Since this exhibition does not focus on the designers typically featured in fashion history books, its foundation was built on numerous conversations between the curators and various designers. "We started with the collective intelligence and collective memory of the people," explains Seghrouchni. The result is an expansive exhibition of over 1,000 square meters showcasing fashion from the Moroccan diaspora—the first of its kind. The versatility of Moroccan creators is more evident than ever. The exhibition highlights not only the deep appreciation for craftsmanship that many designers pay tribute to but also a stunning range of colours, materials, and styles. Those who believe Moroccan fashion is limited to kaftans will leave MOḌA with a newfound perspective.

A highlight of the exhibition is a piece designed by Said Mahrouf specifically for the event. Mahrouf collaborated with one of the last gold brocade weavers in the world, Abdelkader Ouazzani, to create a look that appears to have come straight from the loom. This dress is showcased in a section that celebrates close collaboration with artisans. Shortly thereafter, visitors encounter the Freedom Dress by Karim Adduchi, crafted in collaboration with artisans of various faiths.

Given the broad spectrum of Moroccan designers, examples from mainstream fashion brands are also featured. For instance, the popular label Merrachi, known for its shops in Amsterdam and a pop-up in Belgium, attracts long queues on the streets. The menswear brand Mastoor, which is also popular among sustainability-minded consumers, is displayed in one of the halls. Not to mention the shoe brand Raphia and Yousra Razine Mahrah, the winner of the Dutch emerging talent award Lichting 2023, both of whom have secured a spot in the museum.

The importance of telling the stories of these creators is evident in the section dedicated to the Grande Dame of Moroccan couture, Tamy Tazi. All participants of the museum tour must sheepishly admit they've never heard her name. Despite being a close friend of Yves Saint Laurent for 40 years, frequently inspiring him and recognized as the designer who transformed the kaftan into a contemporary fashion piece, she remains almost nonexistent in (Western) fashion history. She made the kaftan more form-fitting and incorporated several significant Moroccan embroidery techniques into her work to keep this heritage alive. The now 97-year-old designer did not participate directly in the exhibition, but her daughter and granddaughter collaborated with the curators to oversee the section about Tazi.

While there is much to share about each garment in the exhibition, the photographs and multidisciplinary works should not be overlooked. Personal photographs, tapestries, artworks, and images from renowned photographers such as Meryem Slimani and Joseph Ouechen illustrate that the Moroccan diaspora cannot be confined to a single narrative. The Centraal Museum's mission to ignite discourse and showcase the diversity of Moroccan designers has been impressively fulfilled.

'MOḌA - Moroccan Fashion Statements' will be on display at the Centraal Museum in Utrecht until March 2, 2025.