Fake Chanel boutique in New York questions the true value of luxury

Artist Tom Sachs is showcasing makeshift Chanel items in an installation set up in his New York studio, which has been transformed into a fake Chanel boutique.

Named "31 Rue Cambon", the installation opens on September 11 and will close on October 10. The timing is perfect, which should make Sachs' work an exciting topic of conversation for the crowd in New York for Fashion Week. The artist intends to make the world reflect on fashion. He wants to encourage people to question the "notion of authorship; value; work; desire; and the cultural mechanisms of luxury," according to the Thaddaeus Ropac gallery.

Specifically, "31 Rue Cambon" transforms the venue into a fully immersive Chanel boutique. The space is entirely populated with handmade reproductions of the house's iconic pieces: suits; accessories; furniture; jewellery; packaging; and retail displays. Constructed from salvaged materials such as plywood, acrylic, cardboard and tape, the work is based on the philosophy of 'bricolage'. This is a creative concept that involves using readily available materials, often repurposed or borrowed.

It features handmade jewellery incorporating Lego pieces or bicycle reflectors, as well as furniture inspired by Coco Chanel's famous Parisian apartment. The experience is complemented by a custom soundtrack that blends ambient music and horror films with the brand's advertising archives.

"31 Rue Cambon" is located a few minutes' walk from a Chanel store in Soho. Although the pieces on display are not wearable and nothing can be purchased, the desirability of the cardboard dresses and Lego jewellery still has an impact. According to several media outlets, the house of Chanel was never consulted about the project.

This is not the first time Sachs has poked fun at the image of major luxury names. The artist has been playing with the industry for several years, subverting products and logos through reclamation processes. "In one of his first exhibitions, he made Knoll office furniture from telephone directories and tape," recalls his biography on the Thaddaeus Ropac gallery website.