CIFF: European buyers make their presence known as brands eye expansions

Last week, Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) demonstrated the continued relevance of fashion trade shows – physical interaction being crucial. Next to the usual Danish and English attendance, German and Dutch could increasingly be heard among the aisles, reflecting an expanded presence of markets where trade shows are becoming less prevalent. As such, there were a number of German exhibitors, as well as Dutch names like Scotch & Soda and G-Star, who, in addition to their collections, attracted visitors to their stands in droves with musical performances.

Strong visitor numbers convince brands

Visitor numbers were convincing, especially on the first day. The following, however, became significantly quieter by midday, as confirmed by Dominik Perzel. Despite this, the country manager for Germany and Austria at Danish streetwear brand Woodbird was overall satisfied with CIFF and its visitor numbers. Yet he, like many international brands and retailers, would prefer the trade show to take place earlier.

While Perzl said he welcomed many customers, he largely used the trade show appearance as a place to initiate conversations and discuss the upcoming season, rather than focusing on orders. The relatively young brand is trying to grow and has already been able to win over a number of retail companies such as Germany’s Peek & Cloppenburg. In terms of fashion, the brand focuses primarily on lightweight fabrics, but particularly draws in retailers with its printed T-shirts.

Brands want to return despite late trade show date

German brand Mazine, which already takes part in trade shows in its domestic market, including Seek and Innatex, also views CIFF as more of a networking tool and, as such, had not scheduled any appointments, aside from individual arrangements with Danish customers. The timing of the trade show is far too late for the sustainably oriented label. Nevertheless, co-founder Henry Canton is certain that they will return after their second participation. In terms of fashion, Mazine focuses on linen for women, which Canton said was very well received. In the menswear segment, which now accounts for 40 percent of sales, the brand plays with corduroy for shorts.

Norwegian denim specialist Livid attended CIFF for the second time after previously presenting at Revolver (which was taken over by CIFF in early 2023) before the pandemic. The label aimed to attract new retail partners as well as write orders with existing retailers. The brand is particularly strong in its home market, but also had several conversations with German customers, a region where it hopes to grow. In addition, the brand wants to expand in North America, particularly in the US.

Sebastian Zal Filsoof of the agency Vald was another to be satisfied with the trade show and confirmed strong visitor numbers on the first day, which then subsided somewhat in the following days. He represented the playful Danish menswear brand Isnurh, which has its origins in jersey but this season had added denim into the collection. Next to jeans, the brand offered simple yet playful iterations of denim jackets, as well as lightweight wool trousers, available in black and brown, which were particularly well received.

Local customers made up most of the orders for Isnurh in Copenhagen. However, for buyers from the likes of Italy and Germany, the timing of CIFF was far too late as budgets are usually already allocated, noted Filsoof. For international customers, Isnurh is represented at the Florentine men's fashion trade show Pitti Uomo. In addition to Denmark and Italy, the Chinese market is also a strong one for the brand, while the US is an area in which it wishes to grow.

Vald further represented Henrik Vibskov, a well-known Danish brand which showed its key womenswear collection at the trade show. Ordering for this label was just beginning at CIFF, meaning the response from retailers was quite different and the pressure was thus significantly lower, said Filsoof. For Vibskov, however, Danish buyers are also likely to come to the brand’s permanent showroom in Paris.

New customers at CIFF

German brand Kleinigkeit was at CIFF for the first time in January in response to the lack of trade shows in Germany – where former big players like Premium and Panorama are notably no longer being held. In Copenhagen, the brand is trying to take its chance to present itself to an international audience as well as German buyers, after summer in its domestic market had been slow to arrive. Despite an overall challenging market situation and rising costs, Kleinigkeit has kept its prices steady and sacrificed margins.

Stuttgart-based label SPSR Studio was a first time exhibitor of CIFF, presenting in Copenhagen with around 35 other fashion and lifestyle brands as part of the ‘Neudeutsch’ concept, a collective that collaborated with CIFF this edition to showcase innovative German brands. Founder Samy El Menshawi was very satisfied with the fair’s visitor numbers and was pleased with international customers. In the first two and a half years of the brand's existence it has focused on its home market, but plans to expand to Italy, Scandinavia and Great Britain from September.

SPSR offers streetwear and football-inspired ready-to-wear, with key pieces being loose-fitting suit trousers and a bespoke oversized suit, which the designer completes in three weeks and offers as a set for 900 euros. El Menshawi uses a water-repellent, coated jacket fabric on which he works with Italian fabric specialist Olmetex. The rest of the collection is produced in Eastern Europe.

Dutch brand New Amsterdam Surf Association, which already presented at CIFF two years ago, was happy to be back. After expanding its distribution network throughout Europe, with the exception of the north, the surf label now wants to grow in Scandinavia. On the first day of the trade show, it held several conversations with potential new customers and showed them its collection inspired by surfing and the Amsterdam lifestyle, said international sales manager Joffrey Schiebel.