Curve New York's SS27 preview: discipline over big bets

Curve New York returns to the Javits Center River Pavilion on August 2, unveiling spring/summer 2027 collections at a moment when intimate apparel and swimwear buyers are rewriting their playbook, ordering earlier, but with far less room for error.

"The market has become much more disciplined over the past few years," Raphael Camp, CEO of Comexposium US, which produces the show, told FashionUnited. "Buyers are planning further ahead, but they're also being more intentional with where they invest. Rather than placing broad seasonal buys, many retailers are looking for brands that offer clear points of differentiation and strong sell-through potential."

That caution isn't dampening appetite across the board, Camp said. "Despite the cautious environment, we're seeing continued interest in premium products, innovation, comfort, sustainability, and brands that offer a unique, compelling story. Buyers are still looking to discover what's next — they're simply making those decisions more strategically."

The tighter buying climate arrives alongside sourcing pressure specific to the category. Intimates manufacturing remains heavily concentrated in Asia, and Camp said tariffs are now a fixture of show-floor conversation. "Brands are navigating higher costs, evaluating manufacturing partners, and looking at ways to build greater flexibility into their supply chains," he said. "At the same time, we're seeing brands continue to invest in product development and innovation because they understand that differentiation is more important than ever."

On the numbers, Camp pointed to retention and buyer quality as the more meaningful measures of the show's health. "Returning exhibitors continue to represent the foundation of Curve, while we're also welcoming a strong mix of new and international brands," he said. "More importantly than overall numbers, we're focused on attracting qualified buyers and facilitating meaningful business conversations that benefit our exhibitors."

"Object of Desire"

That emphasis on quality over volume runs through the August edition's discovery platform, Object of Desire, which returns with ten designers this season, including Rimoné Paris, Carol Coelho, Cake Maternity, Cisô Atelier, Iteration, Rolling, Somewhere Never, Soreil Lingerie, Springrose, and Sugar Candy. The showcase is curated by Bok Goodall, founder of Ms A London, and Molly Jayne, Curve's communications coordinator and brand curator, and several of this season's designers are international labels using the show as a gateway into the US market.

"Object of Desire also serves as an important gateway for international designers looking to establish a presence in the U.S. market," Camp said, pointing to the media, influencer, and retail introductions the platform has generated for past participants. The Rack Shack hosts an Object of Desire welcome party on August 1 ahead of the show floor's official opening.

New this year is Casa Curve, a VIP gifting suite pairing lingerie, beauty, and accessory brands with top buyers and media in a curated setting. Camp said sponsorships and activations, including a Wacoal-backed panel on converting social engagement into fitting-room traffic and Panache-led social activations on-site, are becoming a bigger share of the business, though not at booth revenue's expense. "Brands are looking for more opportunities to tell their stories, engage with attendees, and create memorable experiences," he said. "We see those initiatives as complementary to the core trade show — not replacing it, but making it stronger."

Additional programming includes a masterclass on the brand-retailer relationship led by industry expert Vanessa Urenda, an all-day post-mastectomy fit certification workshop presented by Anita, a Beauty Lounge offering complimentary make-overs, and an interactive Polaroid Memory Wall.