Labels to Watch: Neudeutsch brands take on Pitti Uomo

A 'New German Wave' is taking the international trade fair landscape by storm. Tuesday, the men's fashion fair Pitti Uomo in Florence opens its doors and focuses on fashion 'Made in Germany' for the first time with the 'Neudeutsch' exhibition space. Based on the eponymous term, Neudeutsch curator, stylist and trend forecaster Julian Daynov has selected German-based brands that are rethinking local fashion and proving that it can be more than just pragmatic, practical and good, but without losing its sense of commercialism.

The latter was a particular focus for Daynov. The word often has an unflattering connotation, but the Berliner is well aware that behind the fashion spectacle is not only the desire but also the need to win the favour of buyers and convince them on a sales floor at the end of the day. Daynov not only focuses on names already well-known in the German fashion scene, such as Berlin brands Haderlump and Avenir or Cologne label Marke, but also uses the exhibition space in the Florentine exhibition centre to shine an international spotlight on talents still largely unknown and working in Germany. As befits a fashion fair, fashion brands are obviously the main exhibitors, but product design, art and even something to quench your thirst can also be found at Neudeutsch.

FashionUnited presents five of the ‘Neudeutsch’ labels to keep an eye on at the start of the fair.

J'ai mal à la tête

Fashion against headaches and world fatigue? In any case, it was the sentence “J'ai mal à la tête et à l'univers” – translated to ‘My head hurts and so does the universe’ – by the Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa that lent its name to the brand founded in Munich in 2012 by Anja Pawlik and Roman Dorfner. As a remedy for the aforementioned world fatigue, the duo presents collections that transform the “fast-paced zeitgeist into timeless pieces”. Specifically, this means fashion that breaks away from a clichéd masculine image, combines sporty and elegant features, and focuses on sustainability in production. Each piece from the brand, which aims to meet the needs of postmodern individualists who want to dress in a masculine yet original way, is manufactured in Germany and Romania.

“We attach great importance to the high quality of our products by using high-quality fabrics that combine modern technology with years of tradition and expertise,” says the Munich-based founding duo. “Our designs, high-quality materials and craftsmanship give each item a unique look.”

Frnkow

Founded in 2020 by siblings Frank and Nadja Lin, the Frnkow label focuses on the often neglected sensual and soulful side of menswear. Based on classic forms of menswear, the Stuttgart-based label's pieces, including both clothing and underwear, reinterpret masculinity and imbue it with a subtle sensuality, which is mainly reflected in flowing, soft-looking fabrics and soft silhouettes. In addition to materiality, stereotypically feminine details, such as bows or briefs, are added to masculine-looking pieces, creating a more refined image of masculinity.

Acceptance Letter

An ‘Acceptance Letter’ is received or given in recognition of one's work and offers it a home, writes the label Acceptance Letter Studio on its website, outlining the philosophy of the label founded in 2021 by Korean-born designer Jakeyoung Shim. Acceptance and appeal are at the heart of the brand's commitment to inclusion, functionality and gender neutrality. Designed for everyday wear, the brand's garments make use of athleisure without straying completely into the world of streetwear.

International Citizen

Founded in 2020 in Berlin by Canadian Annika Tibando, the label International Citizen creates women's and men's fashion that combines sustainability and spirituality. According to Tibando, who previously worked in New York for several years, including at US brand Diane von Fürstenberg, the label is based on the philosophy that we are not citizens of a country but of planet Earth, an ethos reflected in the label's sustainability efforts. Although the idea of chakra crystals woven into the clothes initially brings to mind a hippy aesthetic, International Citizen is surprisingly minimalist. The pattern construction of the womenswear-based collections is characterised by geometric lines, purposeful cut-outs and unexpected shapes, resulting in a clean and sensual look that bypasses seasons and fashion trends to always coexist.

OBS

Founded in 2019 in Augsburg by Matthias and Johannes Schweizer, the leather and bag brand is rooted in the brothers' artisan family background. The brothers' first designs were realised in the basement of their parents' home before the OBS team was joined by their schoolmate Salim Jakoub Ibrahim in 2020. Since its inception, OBS has focused on producing sustainable products that combine high-quality materials with unique design concepts. The shape of each piece is closely linked to the design principle, with a focus on sustainability and minimising material waste. This careful approach is evident in the leather bags, which have rough edges and visible stitching, demonstrating a great attention to detail.

The range includes not only bags, but also small leather goods, jewellery and clothing, all of which are functional and made with minimal use of raw materials. OBS purchases its materials sustainably, often from residual stocks, and sets high standards for its local production partners.