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Labels to Watch: Talents of the Pitti Uomo 104

By Ole Spötter


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Pitti Uomo 104. Image: AKAstudio collection

As is well known, the new season begins with the Pitti Uomo in Florence. In addition to menswear veterans and traditional clothing suppliers, the men's fashion fair also offers young brands their own area - S|Style.

The area, supported by the Material Innovation Lab of Italian luxury goods group Kering, showcases young talent for whom innovation and sustainability play a major role. FashionUnited has outlined four of these brands.

Jeanne Friot

Jeanne Friot was founded by the eponymous designer in 2020 during the pandemic. The Parisian studied at the French fashion school Institut Français de la Mode and went on to work for brands such as Balenciaga, APC and Kitsune.

For her own brand, Friot works with dead stocks and upcycling. The pieces are made on demand in her own studio and at another production site in France.

The designer's creations are available through her own online shop and at various retailers. The label describes itself as an "inclusive brand" that creates pieces that can appeal to their clientele regardless of gender, size or style.

The latest autumn 2023 collection ‘Red Warriors’ reflects the desire to say "no". It was inspired by an anti-fascist skinhead movement - the Red Warriors - that was active in Paris from the mid-80s. In Jeanne Friot's collection, the colour red plays a leading role, bringing together different people and styles, just as it does in our society. Punky elements like tartan and leather straps meet a sporty look with tracksuits.

Jeanne Friot AW23. Image: Jeanne Friot

About: Jeanne Friot:

  • Bestseller: Peacock Pants
  • Target audience: Queer community, city dwellers and those with an understanding of upcycling and recycling and brand values
  • Points of sale::Printemps, Visore X, Soem and Maison Simons
  • Distribution: Likewise Agency. Contact: Cindy Gout ( cindy@likewise-agency.com) and Imad Fradj (imad@likewise-agency.com)
  • Pitti Uomo: Sala Delle Nazioni – C/7
  • Price: 70 to 14.000 euros (for couture pieces)
  • Production: Pieces are made in-house and in France on demand

Steven Passaro

Designer Steven Passaro is likewise based in Paris. However, he studied at the London College of Fashion, where he graduated in 2018 with a Master of Arts in Menswear. He showed his first collection for autumn 2019 at London Fashion Week. Since January 2022, he has presented his collections in Paris as part of the official Fashion Week calendar.

Passaro sees his fashion as the "ultimate encouragement for self-discovery". His timeless creations are meant to promote awareness of body, mind and spirit. To do this, he relies on gender neutral designs and 3D cutting techniques.

The collections are made in France and Portugal with fabrics from European suppliers. Passaro also works with Nona Source, a platform for selling fabrics from remnants of LVMH couture houses. Materials include wool, cotton and silk.

Steven Passaro SS24. Images: Steven Passaro

About Steven Passaro:

  • Bestseller: Tailored gusseted jacket and trousers
  • Target audience: Fashion-loving men and women
  • Points of sale: Ssense
  • Distribution:Showroom NoSeason
  • Pitti Uomo: Sala Delle Nazioni – C/8
  • Price: 150 to 2,600 euros (for couture pieces)
  • Production:France and Portugal


"Innovative, sustainable and timeless" is how the Danish label Isnurh would describe itself in three words. In 2016, Kasper Juhl Todbjerg and Oliver Abrenica launched the brand with "a clear vision and dedication to creating detailed designs". This was to bridge the gap between contemporary and luxury.

The brand's shirts stand out among its collections, which range between modern streetwear, Danish casual and sporty elegance. Isnurh focuses on simple basics as well as colourful prints.

Isnurh is active with more than 26 retail partners in eight markets. For the SS24 season, the brand is working with new agencies to increase its presence in the markets.

Isnurhs SS24 collection. Images: Isnurh

About Isnurh:

  • Bestseller: Shirts, overshirts and t-shirts
  • Target audience: Unisex and timeless
  • Points of sale:Illum and Maximilian
  • Distribution: Germany, Austria, Switzerland - Block2Block (allan@block2block.de), Great Britain - Friday Studios ( mikkel@friday-studios.com), Runway Workshop - China, Macau, Taiwan, Singapore, Indonesia (vanessa@runwayworkshop.com)
  • Pitti Uomo: Sala Delle Nazioni – C/2
  • Price: 80 to 510 euros

Olooh Concept

Olooh was founded in 2018 by Kader Diaby, a photographer from the Ivory Coast. The fundamental inspiration for the label descends from Malinké culture - people from the Ivory Coast who dress in loose-fitting pieces in earthy tones. Diaby also focuses on casual but equally elegant silhouettes. He brings the cultural approach into the present day, combining it with influences from around the world that the designer has gathered on his travels.

On Diaby's artistic journey, in addition to a strong cultural input, he further focuses on values that are relevant across society - better production and education, including in communication and value.

Olooh is not yet active in the European market. However, Diaby told FashionUnited that this is set to change through its participation in Pitti Uomo.

Images: Olooh

About Olooh:

  • Bestseller: Short-sleeved unisex shirt with bronze buttons
  • Target audience: Men and women between 25 and 50 years old who are sensitive to materials and their impact on the environment and are looking for minimalist clothing with a touch of authenticity
  • Points of sale: Elle Aime Creatives, Industrie Africa, Adjoaa
  • Sales: Sales@olooh-concept.com
  • Pitti Uomo: Sala Delle Nazioni – C/10
  • Price: Between 140 and 460 euros for pieces such as parkas, jackets and dresses
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.
Labels To Watch
Pitti Uomo