Première Vision Paris: What fabrics reveal about AW27/28 trends

According to the experts at the Première Vision trade show, innovation for autumn/winter 2027/2028 is not necessarily about inventing new materials. It is about reintroducing colour and expression into wardrobes, injecting technology into classic fabrics and reinterpreting traditional skills.

For this edition, held from September 1 to 3, 2026, at Paris Nord Villepinte, Première Vision Paris has expanded its expertise to include beauty, notably through its partnership with Cosmetic Valley.

This expansion into new creative fields does not distract the trade show from its core business: materials. On the contrary, it is precisely this textile expertise that FashionUnited chose to explore by examining the trends announced for autumn/winter 2027-2028.

Violet takes centre stage, neutrals become more nuanced

In the Première Vision Paris trends forum, colour immediately sets the tone for autumn/winter 2027/2028: deep violet, plums, dusty pinks, mauves and tinted off-blacks.

Violet is one of the key messages. It is worked in chiaroscuro, contrasted with cool yellow lights, in a palette that draws from classical painting.

The interesting phenomenon is broader: neutrals are no longer truly neutral. Grey becomes greyish-blue; khaki leans towards taupe, green or copper; navy can become turquoise or purplish; and plum and deep red become alternatives to black. Ariane Bigot, deputy fashion director, speaks to FashionUnited of a “controlled audacity”.

The second interesting signal is that pink and mauve are becoming gender-neutral, entering the menswear wardrobe. Première Vision sees this as an underlying trend. Hues once strongly associated with womenswear are becoming more versatile and are now even appearing in menswear proposals, including in junior styles like sweatshirts.

Satin, velvet and double-faced woollens: skills are reinvented

The trends from Première Vision are not set in stone before the trade show opens. Initial directions are developed beforehand and shared with exhibitors before being compared with their offerings. For autumn/winter 2027-2028, the selection turned out to be silkier and more influenced by eveningwear codes than the teams had anticipated.

Satins, crushed velvets and wool blends are all references to the traditional symbols of formal and evening attire.

A concrete example is the reappearance of separable double-faced woollens: a high-end weaving technique that allows for invisible finishes and the creation of reversible garments. Traditionally associated with luxury coats, it is now returning in more varied qualities and weights.

This rediscovery is also made possible by the evolution of tools and yarns. “What is new is not necessarily what has just been created, but also what we are rediscovering,” explains the manager. “It is not made with the machines of a hundred years ago, but readapted with new yarns and new machines”.

This journey through time also involves cultural heritage: tapestries, jacquards and nomadic influences create a repertoire where historical and geographical references intersect.

Technical suitings and thermoregulating wools for comfort

Technology no longer needs to display a sportswear/technical aesthetic and thus tends to fade visually. Performance is not necessarily shown anymore; it is hidden within the material.

In its trends forum, Première Vision showcases citywear suitings with waterproof, breathable or windproof membranes, three-layer fabrics and bi-stretch materials.

A jacket can therefore have the appearance of a classic suit while offering the performance of technical clothing.

The search for thermoregulation also highlights the natural properties of wool. Thanks to long, delicate fibres, ultrafine yarns and tightly knit fabrics, it becomes lighter and softer, offering a feel close to silk or cotton. Its insulating properties are particularly effective in meeting the demand for thermal comfort without systematically resorting to synthetic fibres.

“The future is also about freeing ourselves from all-synthetic materials and solutions that are predominantly derived from petrochemicals,” notes the expert.

The quest for comfort also responds to a more structural market evolution. Première Vision points to the ageing of a segment of the population, which is likely to seek more softness, flexibility and ease of use without sacrificing elegance.

Fabrics become tactile, expressive and inspired by nature

Nature is expressed in a much more visible and tactile way. Mosses, wool sponges, brushed woollens, abundant surfaces and fur effects add texture to fabrics and directly evoke the living world.

This nature is not wild. Deliberately raw aspects retain suppleness and softness, while textures sometimes become more whimsical. It is a way of invoking the natural world less through pattern and more through touch, volume and the material itself.

Première Vision notes that alternatives to leather and animal hides continue to be explored — bio-based polymers, reduced synthetics/PU, hemp, wool, brushed alpaca, etc. — but acknowledges that their market share remains a niche. There is a considerable gap between their actual market weight and the amount of communication surrounding them.

Finally, beyond the materials selected by its teams, Première Vision also compares its forecast with other creative perspectives. Twelve silhouettes by students from La Cambre Mode[s] are thus placed in dialogue with the autumn/winter 2027-2028 directions, while Alexis Mabille and Victor Clavelly each present their own selection of materials. This is a way of broadening the interpretation of the season by comparing the textile forecast with those who will ultimately use it.

Next event: January 26 to 28, 2027, at Paris Nord Villepinte, for the presentation of the spring/summer 2028 collections.