Specialisation and bustle on trade fair floor: Insights from men's fashion fair Preview Men

Preview Men officially marks the start of the Dutch trade show season. With its new date at the very beginning of January, the fair now even precedes its Florentine counterpart, Pitti Uomo. “This is the new Modefabriek for menswear,” is a sentiment echoed by several visitors and exhibitors, referring to the country's long-running biannual fair. After nearly five years, Preview Men has firmly established its place in the landscape, especially given the current period of significant transformation within the industry.

The Preview trade shows, organised by Cast, are known for their convivial atmosphere and product focus. This menswear edition is no different, as consistently heard among many exhibitors. The fair now boasts over 170 brands showcasing (part of) their collections. Several new tastemakers have also been added, attracting retailers who typically only source in Paris. The inclusion of these brands has led to the expansion of the exhibition space into aisles between the showrooms on the first floor. Visitors encounter a dozen brands immediately upon descending the escalator.

The route guides visitors past more mainstream brands such as Cast Iron, Lyle & Scott, and Chasin’, after which, on the first level, they encounter the more sustainable brands. Those who haven't glanced at the floor plan might miss this distinction, as there's no signage like "sustainable area" or use of green colours. The floor plan simply uses a green leaf to indicate a brand's sustainable ethos. The fair lets the brands speak for themselves but positions them prominently at the beginning of the route, ensuring visitors can't miss them. In an interview with FashionUnited at the end of 2024, fair director Marijn Verschure shared the event's intention to highlight sustainable brands, and this subtle approach seems to have achieved just that.

Preview Men kicks off an exciting trade show season

One of the agencies representing brands in this area is Sole Agency. Xenia Oppier from the agency is representing brands like Kapten & Son, Rotholz, Faguo, and Klitmøller. “I could talk about sustainability all afternoon,” she laughs. She explains that the brands in this area at Preview Men each tell their own story about sustainability, and it's the representative's role to convey that. No green leaves at the stand or other indicators. “Every retailer and buyer views sustainability differently. I have buyers who source entirely vegan products and therefore don't use wool or leather in their assortment. There are buyers who only want brands with production in the Netherlands or Europe. The criteria differ for everyone.”

Each brand, therefore, will appeal to a buyer in a different way. It's not just about the degree of sustainability, but also, of course, about the design of the product and the price – after all, that's what most consumers look at.

Also located in this area is the family business Roosenstein Wolke, showcasing their wool jumpers. Fifth-generation Hessel van der Laan can be found at the stand. This is the brand's first time at the fair. "We're currently mainly stocked in sports and sailing shops, primarily due to our brand's heritage with the fisherman's jumper. We still see a lot of opportunities in the fashion sector, so that's why we're here today.” Van der Laan is positively surprised and has already been able to schedule many new appointments with potential and returning clients.

Following the designated route on the floor, visitors naturally pass several niche brands on their way to the streetwear section, and on the second level, they find more classic brands like State of Art, Zuitable, A Fish Named Fred, Zilton, and Barbour.

Preview Men doesn't yet feel competition from newcomer, Shift

At the State of Art stand, FashionUnited inquires about the type of clients visiting the fair. They are primarily Dutch, a fact reflected in the conversations overheard on the exhibition floor, but quite a few Belgians are also present. The brand hasn't seen many Germans yet, despite Preview Men promoting the event in German.

The increased presence of Belgian visitors is noted at several stands. It “helps” that Belgium no longer has its own fashion trade show, so buyers typically have to go abroad. For instance, buyers from E5, the well-known chain for men and women, are present. They are there to spot new brands to complement their assortment. “We already have several brands on the womenswear side that draw customers into the shop, and we’re looking for similar brands for menswear. Preview is a good trade show to get a sense of what's happening in the market. It's not too big, but there's plenty to discover.” The buyers will also attend Pitti Uomo later in January.

The trade show calendar inevitably steers conversations towards newcomer event Shift, which takes place at the end of January concurrently with Modefabriek. Awareness of the fair is still limited, as not everyone asked is informed of the newcomer. Many brand representatives also indicate they are adopting a wait-and-see approach and will not be showcasing their collection at Shift this edition. However, they do mention they will visit Shift with colleagues to assess whether the trade show might be a future option. As the fair is so new, not everyone knows what to expect. “Will it just be Modefabriek 2.0?” is one response, while another says: “They came to observe Preview, so they must have taken some inspiration.”

The timing of Shift is also a topic of discussion. By the end of January, retailers have typically spent a significant portion of their budgets, as Oppier from Sole Agency also notes. "That also applies to the Danish trade show CIFF. It's more of an orientation for the following season.” The earlier the trade show in the season, the more convenient. This sentiment is echoed at Forét, where the decision by Preview Men to move its dates forward is met with a positive response. “On the one hand, it's just after Christmas, which can be difficult, but being so early in the season allows people to first orient themselves within the local market.”

Preview Men reveals some difficulties in the menswear sector

While the atmosphere at Preview Men always appears convivial, a different sentiment is discernible beneath the surface. Menswear has endured a challenging period. “The weather last year was dreadful, of course. Winter lasted until May, then it was suddenly summer, which lasted until September. Meanwhile, you’ve already received the autumn/winter collection months in advance,” is the feedback from The Good People. The Rotterdam-based brand has itself had a good year but notes a divide emerging amongst retailers. Shops that truly understand and cater to their target audience are managing to retain their customer base.

The observation that more and more shops are specialising in a niche – not just streetwear, but also clothing with Japanese influences or a distinctly Scandinavian aesthetic with a sustainable focus – is frequently heard at the fair. The middle ground seems to be disappearing.

Added to this is the delayed impact of the pandemic. Retailers are having to repay pandemic support loans, and many lease agreements signed during the pandemic years are expiring. These were often signed for five years, obliging retailers to adhere to this term to keep their shops open. “I've already spoken to several retailers who have indicated they will close their shops now that their leases are expiring. It’s a real relief for them,” says Oppier.

The difference between womenswear and menswear is also noted. “There could be a war going on, and women will still buy clothes. They walk into a shop, see if they like something, and only at the till do they look at the price and the brand, to put it bluntly. Men are brand loyal and only buy when they need something.” This difference is exacerbated by the declining consumer sentiment, as also noted by the buyers from E5. “If you watch the news, you don't suddenly think: 'Gosh, let's go buy some clothes.’”

In short: There's a lot happening within the (Dutch) menswear sector. It promises to be an interesting season. How it will unfold remains uncertain, but let's hope it will be considerably brighter than the stormy weather outside on the day of the trade show.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. It was translated to English using an AI tool called Genesis and edited by Rachel Douglass..

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