What exactly does “regenerative” mean in fashion?

The term “regenerative” is popping up more and more often. But what does it actually mean? And what are regenerative agricultural practices and is there such a thing as regenerative fashion?

Many different approaches

“‘Regenerative’ is not a defined term,” states Sanne van den Dungen. She is co-founder of Raddis Cotton, an organisation that helps Indian smallholder farmers grow regenerative cotton, which is then purchased by member brands such as Hugo Boss, Lässig and Papillon Blue.

Sanne van den Dungen has a background in organic farming and circular economy, with a focus on textiles.

Van den Dungen studied Organic Production at Wageningen University and worked for Michael Braungart for many years in the past, one of the founders and creators of the cradle-to-cradle philosophy. She calls her education and work experience “a combination that brings with it an understanding of the agricultural side as well as circular design and circular production”.

Van den Dungen, together with Aneel Kumar Ambavaram, co-founded Raddis Cotton, a company that supports Indian farmers in switching to regenerative cotton cultivation. At Raddis, there is a direct link between farmers and end users: these are affiliated companies including Hugo Boss, Lässig and Papillon Bleu to whom Raddis supplies fibre, yarn, cloth and finished products. The company aims to establish a full food & fibre value chain, of which cotton is a part.

For several years now, Van den Dungen has been spending most of the year in India. “I wanted to be where I could make a real impact,” she states.

“Whereas ‘organic,’ for example, is a protected term, ‘regenerative’ is not,” explains Van den Dungen. “That means everyone gives it a different interpretation (just like the umbrella term ‘sustainability,' for example, ed.).” She herself therefore would like to see it defined. “For example, for some people regenerative agriculture means without harmful chemicals, but for us it goes much further than that.”

Nevertheless, there is one primary idea and some core principles, according to conversations with two more insiders: fashion professional Stijntje Jaspers of the Fibershed Netherlands foundation

Stijntje Jaspers worked as a designer and trend forecaster in ‘mainstream fashion’ for over 25 years, after which she changed track.

Together with Martine Nieuwenhuis, she founded Fibershed Netherlands, an affiliate of the global Fibershed movement that was started by Rebecca Burgess in the US in 2012 and now has 70 local initiatives.
Fibershed aims to create a local, sustainable fashion system using natural, regenerative resources. Joining the Dutch network are smaller and bigger sustainable names such as Hullekes and The Knitwit Stable.

Raising awareness is one of the foundation's biggest activities, says Jaspers. “We share our vision and mission with new professionals and consumers at fairs and through lectures and education (e.g. an education pack has been created and a book for young people has been published).

and US soil expert Dr. Adam Cobb.

Dr. Adam Cobb is a US American scientist specialising in soil microbiology (he knows all about dirt and soil, ed.) and agroecology (read: sustainable agriculture).

Cobb works as a content creator and science communicator at Soil Food Web School, an educational platform and organisation that teaches people how to apply the principles of soil regeneration to restore soil biology and promote sustainable agricultural practices.

1. What is regenerative agriculture?

“In regenerative agriculture, farmers have a very different relationship with the land compared to conventional or intensive farming,” begins Cobb.

‘Soil exploitation’ by humans has been around for thousands of years, the scientist explains, but it is mainly the Green Revolution that led to the intensive agricultural practices as we know them today.

In the 1940s to 1960s, agricultural production (and food supply) increased significantly worldwide with the introduction of modern techniques and new technologies. Farmers started using fertilisers, chemical pesticides and improved irrigation methods, among others. The focus came to be on efficiency and maximum production. Since then, farmers have grown one or a very limited number of crops on a large scale (the technical terms for this are ‘monoculture’ or ‘monocrop’).

Moreover, the pesticide and fertiliser lobby is huge, experts underline. “Initially, they seemed like panaceas,” says Cobb. “But, as is often the case with human inventions, think, for example, PFAS,” points out Jaspers, “there is also a downside.”

Regular farmers these days are constantly fighting something, experts argue exasperatedly. The focus is on preventing pests and diseases by spraying and spraying.

“But as a result, holistic ecosystems break down,” clarifies Jaspers. “One thing that is being dealt with brings something else out of balance.”

Negative consequences of intensive agriculture are visible by now: we are facing soil degradation and depletion, water pollution, biodiversity loss and climate change. The former is sometimes so serious that farmers start using a new piece of land because the old one is no longer doing its job.

“One could say that the agricultural sector operates in the same way as the pharmaceutical industry,” says Cobb. By that, he means that symptom control rather than prevention is being practised or looking at addressing underlying causes.

“Healthy soil depends on healthy microorganisms; you can compare it to how good bacteria in our intestines are essential for human health,” explains Cobb. Countless microorganisms live in healthy soil; the more life there is in the soil, the healthier.

Regenerative agriculture is fundamentally about [promoting] healthy soil and a healthy ecosystem.

“Instead of spraying pesticides against aphids in my garden, I plant flowers that attract insects that eat aphids,” illustrates Cobb further the completely different approach with a home garden and kitchen example.

Or as Jaspers put it, “working with nature instead of against it.”

Restoring and promoting soil health are key principles of regenerative agriculture

• “Context matters,” sums up Cobb the first principle. There is no universal formula for regenerative farming practices. Farmers tailor practices to their specific situation, climate, soil conditions, available resources, etc. He points out that already no standard recipes from agricultural school are followed at all. Because, “farming in the Netherlands or Germany is substantially different from farming in Zambia or Botswana anyway”.
• Regenerative agriculture is about as few biological disturbances as possible. Therefore, no ploughing is done, and fertilisers and insecticides are generally out of the question. “You want to minimise disruption to the microorganisms in the soil,“ explains Cobb.
• Another important aspect is the ground cover. The land must not lie fallow and it is important that there are always living plants and roots in the soil. An additional advantage is that sunlight cannot affect the microorganisms in the top layer of the soil, as is the case with monocrops after harvesting food or cotton, for example.
• ”In periods or areas where plants are not growing, the soil is covered with organic material such as compost and crop residues (leaves, stems, etc.),” Cobb continues. These materials act as a protective layer for the soil when plant roots are not active. “They prevent desiccation and erosion while providing habitat and food for microorganisms.”
• Increased diversity is another important principle. So what you see is that in regenerative agriculture, several crops are often grown on one piece of land. The greater the plant diversity, the more favourable the environment for the ecosystem. “Hemp and flax, for example, are very good rotation crops,” says Jaspers.
• Regenerative agriculture, by the way, also involves that mostly animals are used. Plus points include grazing, natural fertilisation and ‘ploughing’ through their hooves. “Cattle help recycle the nutrients in the system,” says Cobb.

2. Regenerative agriculture is not new, but increasing attention is paid to it and this is why

“Regenerative agriculture, by the way, is not a new approach but actually the old way of doing things,“ notes Van den Dungen. “All kinds of crops, including cotton, were grown in harmony with nature in India before the Green Revolution.”

But it is true that there is now a growing interest (pun intended) in regenerative practices.

Cobb cheerfully explains that several scientists have come to the same conclusion, that regenerative agricultural practices are the direction for the future.

Why is that so? Partly because of more knowledge. “Contemporary technology like microscopes has literally made it visible how important microorganisms in the soil are for fertile land,” explains Cobb. The medical world now also looks at things very differently, he again draws the parallel. “You used to get antibiotics for an infection. Nowadays, we take a neutral or even positive approach that looks at your lifestyle, diet, etc. so that a healthy microbiome (in the gut, ed.) is not disturbed or affected by the cure.”

Moreover, farmers themselves want to increasingly change their practices. They see the impact of intensive farming practices on the environment and sometimes literally on their own health.

“Here, on the other side of the world, very harmful pesticides may still be used,” says Van den Dungen. “Often these are mixed by hand by farmers, without protection. What you see is that serious health problems can occur as a result.”

Some farmers are facing economic challenges, such as rising costs and fluctuating returns.

Cobb points out that his friends, cotton farmers in Oklahoma (US), have faced a massive 600 percent increase in fertiliser costs due to the war between Russia and Ukraine. „Anything but sustainable or tenable,“ he says.

Van den Dungen points out that yields of regular cotton are variable and adds that the whole system of conventional cotton cultivation in India is flawed. “Farmers have to buy their seeds and other inputs like fertilisers and pesticides from intermediaries, often on high interest credit. These intermediaries are also the ones who buy the cotton crop. So when that price falls, many farmers are left with outstanding loans.”

Raddis Cotton started with 42 farmers and in recent years has expanded to more than 11,000 farmers with over 6,000 hectares of land. “Most of the farmers who join are switching from conventional cotton farming to organic regenerative practices,” says Van den Dungen.

For many, it is a process of ‘unlearn and relearn’, she argues. Raddis provides training to farmers on how to make natural pesticides and fertilisers, for example. The company also guides farmers on a daily basis. Essential for continuity, says Van den Dungen.

“By combining non-GM cotton seeds with other crops (called ‘intercropping’ or ‘mixed cropping’), we are working towards a holistic system,” Van den Dungen explains. This improves biodiversity for cotton plants and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. “Moreover, it provides farmers with food for the family and makes them less vulnerable by not being solely dependent on cotton cultivation.”

As a matter of fact, cotton has a buyer even before the seeds go into the ground. “Brands are involved right from the start,“ says Van den Dungen.

There is also the promise of a better price. “Farmers get a premium on top of the market price,” says the Raddis co-founder. So they earn more than with regular cotton cultivation.

Despite these positive incentives, the transition is tense for many farmers, Van Dungen explains because of the completely different approach and, above all, because it usually “involves their whole life”.

“In the most positive scenario, there will be a big shift when it comes to farming practices,” believes Cobb. “When situations get too bad, people will take action,” continues the self-proclaimed ‘soil nerd’. “Just look at how the mindset around food has changed in the last 15 years.”

3. Does regenerative clothing actually exist?

What is regenerative fashion? “Regenerative fashion is clothing made from regenerative raw materials,” explain Jaspers and Van den Dungen.

A regenerative raw material should then be used to create a circular design. “Thus, as a designer, one would think carefully in the design phase itself about how to use raw materials, with which other materials to mix them (ideally not because that complicates recycling) and how to stitch the garment,” says Van den Dungen.

The idea is that regenerative textiles can eventually “go back into the soil”.

“But first, of course, we are going to wear the clothes for a very long time, then upcycle them, then repair them and perhaps recycle them several more times,” underlines Jaspers. Only when the fibre is so short ‘that nothing more can be done with it’ can it be returned to the biosphere.

This could be possible with non-chemical cotton from Raddis, as it is “a naturally degradable raw material”, Van den Dungen points out.

“Or consider the wool from The Knitwit Stable,” states Jaspers. “They use wool from their own sheep that are kept naturally and without anything chemical. As long as the wool remains undyed or is dyed with natural materials as Roua Atelier and Zeefier do, the products are basically regenerative and a material can finally go on the compost heap. Back in the earth, it contributes carbon and provides nutrients for microbes, which improves soil quality and helps plants grow.“

“For other regenerative materials, one could think of linen from The Linen Project, which is woven by Enschede Textile City and from which a wedding suit is then made by the tailoring company New Tailor or a jacket by fashion designer Joline Jolink,” Jaspers spins the yarn further. “Again, the products must not contain artificial elements such as coatings and it is important that the yarns are of a natural material (not polyester, which does not break down) and have biodegradable buttons, for example."

“This creates a closed-loop system,” stresses Van den Dungen. In a closed-loop system, materials re-enter the production cycle. This means no waste or pollution is created. This system is diametrically opposed to the linear economy and is therefore truly sustainable.

In practice, by the way, one hardly sees regenerative fashion yet. But, as Jaspers points out, change begins just as trends meet trailblazers. “There are small entrepreneurs and pioneers who very much believe in a local, sustainable system and are involved in regenerative practices,” concludes Jaspers. “What makes me hopeful is that by working together, we can create a sustainable future.”

Sources:
- Interview with Stijntje Jaspers, co-founder and director of Fibershed Nederland foundation, on 27th May 2024.
- Interview with scientist and soil expert Dr. Adam Cobb on 30th May 2024.
- Interview with Sanne van den Dungen, co-founder of Raddis Cotton on 3rd June 2024.
- Book: ‘Goede gespreksstof, van grond tot garderobe’ [Good points, from soil to wardrobe] by Stijntje Jaspers, Fibershed Nederland, October 2023
- Noble Research Institute article ‘The Fundamental Principles of Regenerative Agriculture and Soil Health’ by Courntey Leeper Girgis.
- Parts of this article text were generated with an artificial intelligence (AI) tool and then edited.

This background article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.