A look back at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles: 54th INNATEX

54th INNATEX: “Together we’re simply better”

From circular economies and political regulations to staffing and inflation, the sustainable fashion sector is currently having to deal with an extraordinary number of issues. This became very clear at INNATEX, which took place from 20 to 22 July 2024 in Hofheim-Wallau, near Frankfurt am Main. Well over 200 labels presented their collections and exchanged ideas at the international trade fair for sustainable fashion, among them both pioneer businesses and newcomers to the sector. Experts from the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN), the Hesse Retail Association (Handelsverband Hessen) and other institutions were likewise present and shared their observations.

Lena Böringschulte, Head of Sustainability at Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf, emphasises that sustainability is a collective responsibility that can help to make the fashion industry more sustainable through cooperation and customer involvement. “When it comes to sustainability, it's not about who makes the most progress and achieves the greatest success first, but about making the entire industry more sustainable. By sharing experiences and learning from each other, we can move forward together. By actively involving our customers in the sustainability process, we are creating a fashion world that combines responsibility and style.”

Lena Böringschulte sat on the Retail Association’s large expert panel, together with Jochen Ruths (owner of clothing store Peter Ruths, President of the Hesse Retail Association and Vice-President of the German Retail Association HDE), Roman Degenhardt (owner of shoe store Der Schuhladen, managing director at Zehenspiel Barfußschuhe, co-initiator of #schuhandelhatzukunft), Eva Bovet (owner Betten Raab); and panel moderator Cheryll Mühlen (Editor-in-Chief Textilmitteilungen, J'N'C and Green Knowledge). In addition to the above-mentioned aspect of collaboration, talk guests discussed topics such as staff training, consultancy and information as well as the relevance of change.

Since COVID, if not before, Green Fashion producers have known at first hand what scarcities in raw materials mean. Katrin Rieber (tentation), Pia Egelkraut (avonté), Jonathan Radetz (Halt.Clothing) and other labels that rescue or upcycle materials were all agreed that the fashion narrative needs to become more flexible. By their very nature, such business models cannot and should not predict in advance exactly how a collection in a particular year will look. Instead, this attitude needs to be challenged and curiosity in and enjoyment of individual pieces or limited editions aroused.

“The markedly reduced scope, owing to a number of factors, for planning in the Green Fashion business affects the entire supply chain,” states Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager. “It’s important now to make a greater commitment to collaboration, long-term partnerships, networks and relationships of trust. We regard INNATEX on the one hand as an ordering platform, but on the other hand it is also a meeting point where participants can share their experiences and approaches in a particularly open and friendly manner. If anything, discussion at this fair was even more intensive – that, at least, is the feedback we’ve had from several sources.”

With regard to consumers’ general reluctance to spend, too, the community demonstrated a constructive attitude and an appreciative attitude to colleagues. “It was really good fun,” says buyer Lena Gerst of Konsekvent Kempen. “Everyone’s so nice and the conversations in particular are what make a fair like INNATEX worthwhile.”

The portfolio of labels clearly illustrates some of the key themes for Spring/Summer 2025. These include light textiles such as linen and organic cotton muslin. Many of the designs revolve around artistic prints, sequences, concrete motifs or digital printing. All in all, the look is more elegant, but without feeling conservative. Classic cuts, blouses, sets, multifunctionality and clothes with flowing silhouettes emphasise the quality still further. From 18 to 19 August 2024, the INNATEX showroom in Bern with around 50 labels will follow for this season. The 55th INNATEX will then take place from 18 to 20 January 2025.