PRE-FALL 2019 – JOAN
This season ALEXACHUNG finds inspiration in the strength, femininity and forgiveness of the saint Joan of Arc and mixes with that a tombola of pop culture references. From the historic through to the thoroughly modern, this is a collection that continues the brand's desire to explore powerful women and culminates in a coherent story of wardrobe essentials.
Chung takes armour styling as a leitmotif for breastplate details on updated Dick Tracy trench coats, new bobble knits, favourite ruffle-front blouses and a series of dresses that embody something pretty and dreamy, breaking away from the collection’s original line of defence.
A Forget-Me-Knot bustier dress is sexy and strong, bias-cut slips and scoop-neck peasant dresses are reminiscent of Arc as she was so depicted in nightwear; while her warrior side plays out in svelte mesh chainmail-esque columns, exposed metal zippers and tarnished buttons.
There comes fighting talk in slogans such as “strength” and “I am not led, I lead” in Latin on T-shirts and knitwear for the ALEXACHUNG take on tarot cards. But these are the kinds of fortunes you actually want to know - they also feature as witty vistas on a new addition to the AC wardrobe, a neat fitted hoodie. Meanwhile a hand-drawn medieval floral print features on wispy dresses that play into old-world mysticism and religious iconography.
Elsewhere, a little dog mascot makes for a jacquard and accents staples like the ALEXACHUNG pyjama suits, here with heart buttons that reference a sense of loss and fragility: jumpers quite literally wear their hearts on their sleeves, others are an ode to the hounds of love.
But outerwear will protect you. Classic AC trench shapes are given an investigative edge while blazer jackets play with proportions and finish; a denim shacket solves the age-old jacket or shirt conundrum; and for underneath the faithful jumpsuit has been updated for a snug and flattering fit on the waist. There’s sharp tailoring realised in casual denim to create the dream trouser; crops and wide legs, an 80s Bros wash. And Charlie Chaplin salopettes are new to the mix. Wear with the tux-style shirt, its oversized cuffs, beneath.
A new knitwear group supersizes the classic Fair Isle sweater and gilver, a cross between silver and gold, brings a new lease of disco life to the classic Bianca suit. You’ll all be wearing the shade soon.
On shoes and accessories, the former takes those medieval mesh and historical details for pumps and heels that once again combine something durable with something soft - pearls on boots and anklets on non-confrontational mules. Earrings, rings, brooches and chokers reinforce.