Jil Sander FW21 Women’s Collection

Fearless. This collection is an ode to individuality, freedom and change. It is a mirror of the sense of self reflection and intimacy we are enjoying, even if it is forced upon us, and the desire we have for the company of others. Our sensation of being multiple, manifold, of swinging between diverging needs and pleasures, of wanting to be everything we feel, giving space to our many selves, is intense, revealing, and eventually empowering.

We need to be positive to change. Ornamentation, prints, patterns and colours are present and strong. The palette is natural and exceptionally light for winter: butter, cream, powder, mauve, lilac, raspberry, cardamon, burnt sienna, black, different shades of yellow and blue.

We are plural, eclectic, and so is the way we want to perceive and show ourselves. The pristine tailoring of jackets and coats, in compact wools and leather, cut straight or with an accentuated hourglass shape, complement the soft, expanded volumes; extremely refined fil coupe (whose intentional imperfections are the traces of hand touch) and plissé silk dresses and shirts. Of bold jewels and a plastron made of natural pearls of different dimensions and shapes. They are worn, layered together in a play of contrasting tactilities, movements and silhouettes.

Layering finds its juxtaposition, its balance, in the simplicity of lingerie-inspired lace dresses; in knitted bodysuits donned with A-line skirts; in voluminous or fitted dresses. All worn with supple nappa leather boots, a boxy handbag, or two different rectangular tote bags, one thin, the other with a bellowing folded side.

The lean construction of shirt-dresses opens into long and ample pleated skirts. Lace collars lie over tailored jackets. There are constructed and shaped dresses in mixed fabrics, joined at the waist by fashioned knitting.

The opposite poles of the prints and patterns of the collection are also revealing. One is floral and colourful, and decks soft silk trousers and shirts; one is made of large-scale butterflies in black and white, a sign of rebirth. The others are Bauhaus geometric, or optical, woven, knit, and finally stretched to achieve three dimensional effects.

Lucie and Luke Meier remind us that playing with clothes, recombining them, is uplifting. Light-hearted and meaningful at the same time. Here, as in all their work at Jil Sander, touch is as important as sight. The way to achieve this is through craftsmanship and the meticulous choice of materials and techniques. In the enlarged hand-enamelled chain necklaces. In the rouching of fine leather gloves. In the knitted shaping found from shoe to dress to lingerie.

Footwear is powerfully included, with the presence of an over the knee boot, in black, white, cream, vegetable tanned nappa, grey, and metallic finishes, silver and copper. Some are ornamented with large carved crystals, encased in metal, attached by hand. Heels are bold and sculptural. Sandal uppers are thin straps, or round and inflated, perched upon a bulbous plexi shaped heel in candy colors. Evening shapes are pointy and are often accented with chunky chains.

Read more about Jil Sander on the brandpage: fashionunited.com/companies/jil-sander