Lacoste builds spring/summer 2027 collection around the clay of Roland-Garros

French brand Lacoste presented its spring/summer 2027 collection on Sunday, October 4, 2026, on the Philippe Chatrier centre court at Roland-Garros in Paris. Titled 'Dress Code: No White Required', the collection by creative director Pelagia Kolotouros takes clay as its starting point.

For the show, the venue was covered in clay, a reference to the factory where it is produced, and the runway traced an infinity loop across the court.

Tennis history as a reference

The collection draws on the history of tennis, a sport that, according to the brand, gave fashion its first preppy codes: white, strict etiquette and grass courts. In the 1920s, champions Suzanne Lenglen and René Lacoste rewrote those rules. Lenglen played without a corset in a pleated midi skirt, while Lacoste shortened the sleeves of his shirt for lightness, comfort and speed, a gesture that gave rise to the polo shirt.

Kolotouros focuses on the moment the tennis uniform gave way to individual expression. The designer reads the court as a surface that changes during play: lines blur, clay settles on hems and sweat remains visible. These marks, which would once have been seen as imperfections, define the codes of the collection.

Fabrics treated for movement

Kolotouros continues to combine Lacoste's heritage with technical fabrics, and the preppy classics lose their rigidity. Cottons are garment dyed and enzyme washed to soften their structure, cool wool is deconstructed to become more fluid and silks are washed for a deliberately imperfect finish. Perforations in the jersey improve breathability and freedom of movement, while the tailoring follows the body without constricting it.

The runway featured deep teal coats and unstructured suits, worn loose and belted and paired with acid yellow lanyards and pendants. Oversized piqué polo shirts were layered over long sleeve technical T-shirts and combined with semi-pleated skirts.

Cobalt blue nylon tracksuits and a bright orange zip vest referenced the warm-up, while a white coat and wide trousers appeared with clay stains on the hem. Crinkled cottons and graphic T-shirts completed the offer.

Bag and sneaker inspired by the court

The collection includes two key accessories. A soft, draped bag is inspired by a 1984 photograph of the polo shirt by Irving Penn, an image that also appears on T-shirts and lanyards. Its diagonal flap mirrors the cotton piqué collar, and it comes in white, a clay gradient and mirrored silver.

The sculptural ACE-T1 sneaker, with a cage structure that evokes a taut tennis net, comes in three versions: a trainer, a wedge shaped like a tennis ball and a laced heel.

The season's palette combines sunbaked clay and mineral earth tones with touches of silver, acid yellow and cobalt blue. According to the brand, the collection returns to the idea René Lacoste had when he cut his sleeves: the freedom a uniform allows matters more than the uniform itself.