MM6 Maison Margiela Avant-Premiere AW25

Replicating, flipping, twisting, cutting, rotating and reversing: For AVP Autumn-Winter 2025, the MM6 creative studio adopts an elegant and elevated direction, offering a playfully distorted take on smart dressing that never strays far from its subversive street origins.

In that spirit, the perennial appeal of impeccable tailoring cross-pollinates with the casual comfort of streetwear and sportswear, whether wrapped in a garment cover-inspired dress, perched atop heels of knee-high boots informed by the archives, in black, brown or nude, or wrapping the buttoned collar of a peacoat across the neck with a wintry gesture.

Now-iconic silhouettes form the starting point in a wardrobe of quietly radicalized staples, transformed via scaled-up proportions, inside-out, back-to-back and front-to-front constructions, and quirky trompe-l’œil effects. Photographic prints of rustic pelts pattern dresses and shirts, while bomber jackets cut from stonewashed and padded black satin masquerade as distressed leather and flowing volumes alternate with clean-cut tailored shapes in a muted palette of black, grays and tobaccos.

Less ‘ready-to-wear’ than ‘ready-when-worn’, each garment is conceived to shape-shift with the wearer’s personality by offering multiple styling options, an irreverent celebration of how distinctive ways of wearing clothes make for truly individual outfits.

Women’s:

A scarf storyline emerges in different conceptual forms, from found object-inspired silk foulards that double as halter tops, tied with signature white-cotton ribbons at the back, to dresses and tops with integrated scarves that wrap around the body to create differing fits and drapes. Scarves stream from the collars of chunky-knit sweaters, faux-fur jackets and fluid silky dresses, adding comfort and protection, a delicate flowing feel or a racy touch of panache and glam.

Scales are blown up, such as on an archival peacoat reimagined in a cream wool cloth or the Maison’s iconic zipped trucker sweater, reworked as a big brown ribbed-knit cardigan dress with frayed edges.

Signature surreal twists on pattern constructions play out on pants, shirts and waistcoats, fusing identical sides of garments to create the illusion of clothes worn back-to-front – and vice versa. Pieces are flipped inside out, their exposed constructions serving as a decorative feature, with couture techniques used to create new details and volumes on clean, polished silhouettes: multiple fitting darts follow the body shape in precise, origami-like constructions, sculpting the bust, redefining the waist and shortening lengths, injecting strict looks with a slightly insolent vibe.

Bolduc draping tape used on dressmakers’ mannequins highlights the sharp-lined constructions on a plain black tailored suit with an A-line skirt and form-fitting dresses in suiting fabrics, while a simple piece of formal gray wool suiting fabric is folded and sewn to create an oversize dress with unfinished selvedge edges, emphasizing the pure precision of its construction and embodying the primary gesture of draping cloth on the body. A lesson in pure, distorted chic. Clothes with attitude.

Men’s:

Street codes blend with reworked formal archetypes, infusing precise, sleek pieces with the casual ease of streetwear and adding sportswear functionality to wardrobe staples. Utilitarian basics are enriched with unexpected material treatments, as removable gray jersey hoods are transplanted onto formal shirts and classic trenches, and workwear is upgraded with faux-fur linings.

Playing on perceptions of high and low, real and fake, formal and casual, a reporter jacket is cut from heavy used denim, while a generic brown trench coat and a basic black aviator jacket made of glossy washed pleather reveal a more punkish attitude.

Non-conformist elements create further visual intrigue, with something slightly off, from a flipped pocket on the front of a jean jacket to displaced pleats on a gray flannel pant, and denim cut with side seams to create a subtly twisting silhouette.

Functional and elemental clothes are enlivened with unexpected details and proportions, spinning a new perspective on classics.

MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon:

This season also marks a new step in the ongoing partnership between MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon with the release of the first non-high-performance sneaker. The XT MM6 introduces a new rounded volume with a big, comfortable sole, reinterpreting the lines and design of the Salomon XT’s classic upper with graphic layered brand logos in contrasting color combos of black on white, silver on black and hot red on silver.

Revisited with subtly tweaked proportions, a new ’90s-inspired athletic wardrobe spans form-fitting aerodynamic stretch leggings, tops and bodysuits with removable sleeves, oversized fleece tops embossed with the iconic Salomon Link logo and reversible seamless padded jackets, building on a shared ethos of offering unconventional perspectives on progressive, technically advanced designs.