Mugler x H&M collection

The Mugler H&M collection encapsulates the very essence of the house of Mugler – it is a tribute to freedom and self-expression. It offers shoppers the chance to own a piece of fashion history - whether one of the unmistakable new hits from Mugler’s recent collections, by creative director Casey Cadwallader, or an exclusive 80s and 90s archive remake, originally created by founder Manfred Thierry Mugler. The collection is defined by the irrepressibility of Mugler’s energy; flamboyant, playful, body-positive, youthful, and open to the many facets of each individual wearer’s identity. Mugler has always offered an open invitation to a broad range of characters and beauty types, and now, with this partnership with H&M, it is throwing open the door even wider.

Discussions for this collaboration began before Manfred Thierry Mugler’s passing in January 2022, but tragically life decided otherwise. The Mugler H&M collection is a dynamic showcase of the Mugler aesthetic as it is today, and the intriguing ways that Cadwallader has twisted and reinvented the House to make it fresh and relevant for a new generation.

The collection includes both menswear and womenswear, and yet, the fluid, transformational cross-gender styling that has always underpinned the Mugler ethos is central. Much can be shared and restyled according to the unique identity of the wearer.

I was determined that this collection be true Mugler. The details and quality of every piece had to be exactly as we do them, and I wanted to showcase the energy of Mugler, which has always been about clothes that allow for personal liberation. You can be so many different versions of yourself in Mugler

Essential to Cadwallader’s vision for the collection was that it capture the true essence of Mugler now. All the Mugler essentials feature: sharp tailoring, unexpected but flattering denims, and the form-hugging dresses and catsuits that have propelled Mugler to the forefront of stage-wear and partywear.

Mugler, as a house, has always been one step ahead – embracing diversity, body-positivity, gender fluidity, long before the rest of fashion did. Each piece in the collection highlights why Mugler garments have always captured hearts and imaginations. There are so many iconic pieces to choose from

Womenswear

For women, the silhouette is the signature Mugler fit of today; strong, big shoulders, a tight focus on the waist, an ode to the curves of the body. The spiral, which is a true Cadwallader signature, runs across the collection – we see his signature twisted jeans, with panels of nylon and denim, and rounded seams on the sleeves of hoodies and blazers.

Denim is a key presence in the collection. Here, the iconic Mugler jeans come in blue with black nylon. They have a flattering thong detail on the back, and are constructed with a seam under the bum for lift. There is also a cropped denim jacket, with twisted sleeves, and snap buttons. It comes with Mugler’s classic strong shoulders, and extra padding for added form.

Leather is also a key story. A star piece is a long trench in chrome-free leather. It comes in a rich teal green and features a long scarf detail that can be wrapped around the body. This same scarf detail also appears on a corresponding black cropped leather jacket, with a nipped-in waist.

The quality of the tailoring is exemplary. One jacket comes with corset details, cut from the sheer mesh that has become such a Mugler signature. The jacket comes with built-up shoulder pads and is padded and tailored to give a rounded hip detail. Another blazer channels a classic menswear fit – it has no collar and a looser cut. Tailored trousers come with a key-hole detail at the hip, for a flash of skin. A tailored mini-skirt is cut super teeny, with the waist band extending to become a belt. A tailored little black dress comes crafted in stiff black wool to hold its incredible shape – it has a tight fitted waist, and padded hips.

The partywear offer is a feast of glamour and vibrancy. One black dress comes with a bra top, from which the rest of the fabric, including a sheer panel across the waist, is suspended. Another dress, a recognisable Mugler style, comes with a single, detachable, glove and seems to knot itself around the body in a series of fabric panels – it comes in a range of colours, for maximum choice. Elsewhere, there are high-neck mini dresses, with gathered details, in lime and black, corset dresses in black and Klein blue, and, an equally tight-fitting sportier style, with spiral panels of navy and burgundy, which comes with matching leggings. Other spiral dresses, with transparent mesh across the clavicle and waist, come in black and pink or with special glittering rhinestones all-over.

For this collection, Mugler H&M offers mesh in a light beige and a brown, alongside a classic black. This see-through mesh creates an illusion of transparency when worn. In the above tones, the mesh is rendered on dresses, catsuits, leggings and bodysuits – some of Mugler’s most beloved items under Cadwallader. These come with twisted seams and panels that outline muscles and curves. Some come encrusted with sparking rhinestones.

To style under other pieces from the collection, or to wear on their own as swimwear, are bodysuits and bikinis in black, lime and pink, which can be knotted and criss-crossed around the body. Additionally, a leather bra is ideal for styling with tailoring. For more casual moments, there are hoodies and t-shirts, decorated with a range of Mugler details and motifs. One very special hoodie features a tight-fitted bonded corset with boning and rounded shoulders.

The archive proportion of the collection will delight fans of 80s and 90s catwalk classics. Each piece, selected by Cadwallader, comes as close to the original as possible and arrives with its own special label, featuring Manfred Thierry Mugler’s signature to convey his legacy. A standout piece is a skirt suit in antique pink, from the mid 1990s. Cut to hug the waist, and crafted in recycled wool, it comes with a striking metal bondage details across the bust, which nods to Mugler’s long interest in subculture and disrupting the typical stuffiness of couture (this metal piece is available to buy separately, as part of the accessories offer, to clip across the lapels of different jackets and tailoring). Also available in the archive range is a beloved 90s black velvet dress, with a fitted waist, peplum skirt, puffed sleeves, and pointed details which flare out from the bust. The original has already become a vintage icon, thanks to its recent profile as a carpet favourite, showing the resonance of archive Mugler with modern style leaders. Finally, there is a long, lace-up black corset dress with sheer mesh panels, from the late 1990s. The piece has been highly influential on Cadwallader, directly informing his interest in sheer panelling, which runs across some of the more modern pieces in the collection, highlighting the vital link between past and present that defines Mugler today.

Menswear

For men, the collection is equally broad and rich and features the same boldness and flamboyance that defines the womenswear. There is a long black leather trench with star logo buttons, a collar-less leather blazer and sensual leather trousers with a visible zip fly. For denim, there is a sculptured denim jacket with padding on the shoulders and twisted seams along the sleeves to accentuate shape, alongside two styles of Mugler’s signature twist jeans - one in black denim, mixed with nylon, and one in classic blue, mixed with black nylon. There is also an oversized denim shirt, a nod to a style favoured by Cadwallader himself.

For tailoring there is a classic wool blazer, in black, with matching wide-leg trousers with a cut-out detail waist band. Ideal for layering are the many sensual, form hugging pieces, including see-through mesh tops with flocked star print and crystal embellishments, a corseted tank-top, and a lycra top with a chest cut out. All these pieces encapsulate the playful gender-fluidity that defines Mugler DNA. Swimming trunks come with a double layered, thong overlay, which nods to the details on Mugler’s classic jeans and bodysuits. For casual days, there are hoodies, including one with a striking corseted waist, and another with all over sparkling rhinestone stars. An assortment of t-shirts carries the dynamic Mugler logos and motifs.

In terms of menswear archive pieces, there is an acidic green tailored jacket, a recreation of the iconic 90s style worn by David Bowie. A matching green tailored trouser, with waist-cut out, has been designed to pair with the jacket. The second archive style is a black parachute jacket, with a padded form, branded zippers and star motif on the nape of the neck, a piece which has been a key archive reference for Cadwallader. Finally, there is an elegant turquoise organic cotton shirt, with a double row of buttons, a remake from the 90´s. A new white version of the shirt is also available.

Shoes and Accessories

Accessories are designed to be worn across genders. They key colours – black and metallic - compliment the general mood of the collection, which oscillates between classic black and daring brights and sparkles. Central to the styling of the collection are gloves and tights, in tones that can be matched with other garments in the collection. There are numerous nods to the archive, from a special boomerang-shaped earring, to exaggerated tear drop shaped earrings and cocktail rings. Other metal pieces include stunning silver and gold body chains and various star-shaped earrings, in different scales. There is also a bold silver necklace made of a run of teardrops, which compliments the archive-inspired earrings and ring. Caps come in leather and cotton, while scarves are rendered in organic silk with a swirling Mugler star pattern. A belt with a large M nod to the iconic branding of the house, while an oversize leather tote features the same punchy star hardware that runs across many of the garments. For footwear, there is a black ankle boot in leather with a sleek, angular toe shape and accentuated heel, a black pointy stiletto bootie, and a black strappy sandal with a squared toe and lacing around the leg.

Sustainability

H&M set out to ensure that this collection was built with sustainability in mind. As a designer collaboration, it´s more aligned with the broader material goals of H&M than ever before with parts of the collection being made from more sustainable sourced or recycled materials. H&M aims for 100% of materials to be either recycled or sourced in a more sustainable way by 2030 and sustainable materials appear cross the collection, from recycled nylon and elastane to recycled metal for all the collection’s jewelry. The majority of cotton used in the collection is made from organic cotton, fitting with H&M successful pledge to use 100% more sustainably sourced cotton by 2020.