24h circular fashion: sector calls for centralized direction and collaboration

The apparel industry has reached a critical tipping point where ambition must transition into collective execution. Last month, the Dutch branch of the international data standardisation organization GS1 and technology firm WAIR hosted the ‘24h Circular Fashion journey’ in Amsterdam, bringing together a diverse group of stakeholders to address the accelerating shift toward a circular economy. Under the theme ‘from compliance to competitive advantage’, the event highlighted a sector grappling with fragmented data but poised to transform regulatory burdens into strategic value. The Event was sponsored by Bleckmann and SPS Commerce.

Shifting perspective on regulation

The primary motivation for the gathering was the increasing pressure from European regulations, most notably the Digital Product Passport (DPP). While such legislation was previously viewed by many executives as a purely bureaucratic hurdle, the consensus in Amsterdam suggested a significant shift in perspective. Industry leaders now increasingly recognize that standardized data and transparency are not merely requirements for compliance but are essential tools for creating a competitive edge.

FashionSIGHTS founder and former McKinsey partner, Achim Berg, set the stage with a keynote addressing why the industry must innovate now. Berg noted that while the global fashion industry is a 2.6 trillion dollar market, growth in developed regions like Europe remains flat. In this zero-sum game, competitive advantage will be won by those who can navigate a world that is “predictably unpredictable,” characterized by rising sourcing costs and the urgent need for circularity.

Navigating 24 hours of innovation

The event followed a rigorous 24-hour format designed to mirror the speed of modern industry changes. Starting at Meet Berlage and introduced by WAIR CEO Mitch van Deursen, the first day focused on showcasing tangible use cases. Presentations about Swedish brand Filippa K and from Pakistan-based manufacturer Interloop provided a comprehensive view of the supply chain, from raw material sourcing to the point of sale.

Interloop managing director, Pascal Betten, emphasized the importance of ‘upstream truth’, arguing that downstream transparency is entirely dependent on the reliability of data at the source. Interloop demonstrated how they assign a unique identification to cotton bales at the farm level, using GS1 Global Location Numbers (GLN) and Global Trade Item Numbers (GTIN) to ensure data cannot be manipulated as it moves through the chain.

The evening program transitioned to the historic Ship Chandlers Warehouse, where AI expert Remy Gieling delivered a keynote on the transformative power of artificial intelligence in fashion. Gieling challenged executives to consider how AI will reshape the next 1,000 days of their operations, moving beyond simple automation toward predictive business models.

From linear costs to circular benefits

The second day focused on the transition from a linear to a circular economic model. GS1 Netherlands sustainability lead, Jan Merckx, addressed the financial implications of this shift. He argued that while maintaining a linear model will incur rising regulatory costs, adopting a circular strategy offers significant benefits.

“If you want to stay in the linear economy, it is a cost,” Merckx stated. “If you are looking at becoming a circular company, then all these things like a digital product passport are benefits you need.”

A highlight of the practical applications was presented by Bleckmann, a logistics service provider. Bleckmann director of the renewal workshop, Hans Robben, showcased how the firm gives damaged fashion items a second life. Robben noted that approximately 30 percent of items in consumer closets will likely be pre-loved or second-hand fashion within the next few years.

Bleckmann demonstrated its ‘Rescue’ service, which repairs and cleans damaged returns back to A-grade quality. Eyckens revealed that 50 percent of damaged returns can be restored, allowing brands to recover full retail value and retain revenue that would otherwise be lost.

Consensus on data and leadership

The event concluded with an AI-led summary of roundtable discussions, where industry professionals identified ‘data chaos’ as the most significant barrier to progress. The majority of participants agreed that the industry currently lacks centralized direction despite having the necessary technology and expertise available.

There was a strong call for GS1 to act as a neutral, unifying party to facilitate international agreements on data sharing. Executives from various disciplines, including banking, customs and manufacturing, agreed that standardization of product and location data is the only way to achieve the scale required for genuine circularity.

A recurring theme was the need to ‘fix the basics’. Former Bijenkorf and Rituals CTO, Nico Wartenberg, reminded attendees that jumping into advanced AI or complex circularity programs is impossible without a solid digital foundation. “You cannot jump on the new without fixing the basics,” Wartenberg noted, emphasizing that consistent master data and Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) remain the essential ‘wooden piles’ upon which the industry’s future must be built.

Collective execution as the path forward

The 24h Circular Fashion journey ended with a circular fashion show by Dutch label Martan, serving as a visual reminder of the creative potential within sustainable constraints. However, the takeaway for the executives in attendance was firmly rooted in operations and collaboration.

The organizers concluded that the textile industry has reached a point where new visions are no longer the priority; instead, the focus must be on collective execution. By establishing structural cooperation and clear orchestration of data across international supply chains, the sector can finally move from theoretical ambition to practical, profitable application. The consensus was clear: circularity is no longer a niche sustainability goal, but the core of future business resilience.