Bleckmann leverages recovery value as a driver for circular fashion
During the recent GS1 - WAIR 24h Circular Fashion Journey, Hans Robben, programme manager of The Renewal Workshop at Bleckmann, presented a pragmatic vision for circularity. The logistics service provider, which has been in business for 160 years, is transforming from a linear 'box-mover' to a crucial partner in the circular chain. Robben emphasised that circularity is no longer a side activity but a substantial part of future business operations.
Legislation as a complex catalyst
The fashion industry is facing a wave of EU legislation, including requirements for eco-design; a ban on the destruction of unsold goods; and extended producer responsibility (EPR). According to Robben, the sector is currently experiencing a certain inertia due to its complexity. With 27 member states implementing the rules at different paces, it is a challenge for brands to navigate this landscape. The digital product passport (DPP) is becoming an essential tool for compliance and transparency.
360-degree consumer journey
The modern consumer expects a hybrid shopping experience. Robben states that in the future, customers will want to combine new items, second-hand fashion and rental clothing in a single basket. An innovative development is the 'trade-in' flow at checkout, where consumers can immediately return an old item to reduce the value of their new purchase. Brands must bring these different streams under one roof to keep the customer experience seamless.
Profitable start with damaged returns
For brands facing barriers to circularity, Robben advises starting with damaged returns, a service Bleckmann calls 'Rescue'. On average, 30 percent of shipments are returned, of which up to 10 percent are damaged.
“We have never seen a business case where this produced a negative result,” said Robben.
Approximately 50 percent of these items can be restored to A-grade quality and sold at full retail value. This directly frees up capital for further circular initiatives.
Operational excellence and data logging
The process of giving clothing a second life is labour-intensive. At the centre in Almelo, items undergo quality checks; repairs; cleaning; and an ozone treatment (sanitisation) to remove bacteria. Manual data logging is necessary for resale, as many products do not yet have a DPP. Robben emphasises that unique identification at the item level, rather than the SKU level, can drastically reduce operational costs in the circular phase.
Digital product passport as a cost-saver
Robben sees the DPP not just as an obligation, but as an 'enabler'. The passport can contain repair instructions and a bill of materials, allowing repairers to know exactly which zip or button is needed. Moreover, it acts as a storyteller that records the entire history of a garment, including previous repairs.
Conclusion
The shift to a circular model is inevitable. Within three years, 20 to 30 percent of wardrobes are expected to consist of pre-loved items. By starting small with repairing damaged stock, fashion brands can realise immediate economic value while complying with upcoming legislation. The integration of logistics, data and repair under one roof is the key to success.
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