Clothing rental: Sustainable alternative or hidden ecological fault?

Business

Credits: Rent the Runway

The idea of renting clothes rather than buying them is convincing more and more consumers, especially as the fashion industry continues to be widely held responsible for heavy CO2 emissions. Indeed, with an annual growth of 10 percent, the clothing rental market seems to meet a need for more responsible commitment, particularly to limit the ecological footprint linked to fast fashion. But is this approach really beneficial for the planet? The answer is more complex than it seems.

A promising solution, but not without limitations

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting in the world, and it is in this context that clothing rental services have emerged, promising a more sustainable alternative. Instead of buying clothes, consumers can now rent them for a limited period, returning them after use to get new ones. Platforms like Coucou have popularised this practice, attracting consumers who want to dress fashionably while reducing their carbon footprint.

However, a study conducted jointly by French business school EDHEC and Belgian university UCL Louvain highlights a surprising phenomenon: renting clothes could, in certain cases, not reduce the ecological footprint, or even worsen it.

The rebound effect: Increased consumption

The 'rebound effect' is an economic concept that describes a situation where the expected environmental gains from a solution, such as renting clothes, are offset by compensatory behaviours. This study, based on qualitative and quantitative research, reveals that renting clothes can sometimes encourage accelerated consumption rather than reducing it. Being able to rent clothes easily, cheaply, and with a wide variety, encourages some consumers to multiply their rentals, or even to impulsively buy the clothes they rent.

Additionally, some individuals that save money by renting then use these savings to buy other goods, such as electronics or home equipment, which increases their ecological footprint.

Different effects depending on consumer groups

The study found that the rebound effect is not homogeneous and varies across consumer groups. Among clothing rental service users, two groups in particular are more likely to exhibit negative rebound effects. The first group, the “stimulation and pleasure seekers", composed mainly of men, seek novelty and diversity. For them, renting stimulates their desire to constantly renew their wardrobe, which can increase their consumption.

The second group, the “urban apathetic youth", although not particularly motivated by the pursuit of pleasure, tend to increase their purchases in other categories after renting clothes. This group, consisting mainly of young urban men, often single and educated, represents about 18 percent of users, and is particularly prone to indirect rebound effects.

A growing but ecologically complex market

The clothing rental market has seen impressive growth and was estimated to be worth 1.77 billion dollars by 2024. It is now expected to reach 2.47 billion dollars by 2029, with a growth rate of nearly 7 percent during this period, according to the Mordor Intelligence report. Companies like Rent the Runway, Gwynnie Bee or Tuileries dominate this sector, but many new companies are entering the market to meet the growing demand. These services offer monthly or annual subscriptions, allowing consumers to access a wide range of clothing.

However, once again, it is important to note that this market growth does not guarantee that clothing rental is actually more environmentally friendly. If used incorrectly, it can become a simple means of consuming more without taking into account the real environmental issues.

How to maximise ecological benefits?

The study shows that while clothing rental can have environmental benefits, it can also encourage counterproductive behaviours. To maximise its environmental potential, companies need to rethink their strategies. Instead of promoting only the hedonistic benefits of renting (such as variety and novelty), they could focus on the real environmental benefits and encourage more sustainable consumption practices.

Platforms should also encourage the long-term rental of eco-designed products from brands that share ecological values. Limiting the number of pieces rented per user and reducing the frequency of exchanges can also be effective levers.

Towards a more responsible fashion

To achieve this goal, it is necessary for companies and consumers to adopt a more responsible approach. Consumers must rethink their relationship with fashion and consumption, choosing quality clothing rather than quantity, and asking themselves questions before renting: "Do I really need it?", "How many times will I wear this garment?". By becoming aware of the impact of their choices, they will be able to contribute to more thoughtful consumption.

Clothing rental companies must also play their part in educating consumers about the environmental impact of their decisions by providing transparent information on the carbon footprint of the products they rent. By collaborating with other players in the sector, they will be able to better understand the real impacts and promote more responsible practices.

Clothing rental can be an attractive alternative to traditional purchasing, but it should not be seen as a silver bullet to solve the fashion industry’s environmental problems. It has its advantages, but also its challenges, particularly due to the rebound effect that can cancel out the expected ecological benefits. For this solution to be truly sustainable, it is essential to adopt a thoughtful and responsible approach, both on the part of companies and consumers.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. It was translated to English using an AI tool called Genesis and edited by Rachel Douglass..

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